Terricciola, a matter of Etruscans and wine

01 The countryside around Terricciola

In the centre of the province of Pisa, right between Volterra and Pontedera, lies the ancient Etruscan town of Terricciola. Today a monumental complex known as the Hypogeum of Belvedere testifies their presence during the 4th century b.C. Like most towns of the Tuscan hinterland, it was dominated in turn by Pisa and Florence, as the Pisan cross and Florentine lily on the town’s coat of arms bears witness. Visiting Terricciola one discovers that the narrow medieval winding streets will suddenly open out on the breathtaking landscapes that surround the town. Many are the ancient churches, medieval hamlets and elegant villas in the surroundings to visit.

 02 Terricciola

However, the name of Terricciola seems to be tied to the production of wine going way back to the Hellenistic period in the 4th century b.C. The oldest traces are to be found in the funerary objects of a tomb situated in the hamlet of San Piero which included ceremony wine cups. During the Roman period wine continued to be abundantly produced and above all drunk to arrive to the Middle Ages when wine lost its noble aspect and became of public use, especially since it was thought that water spread pest and other diseases. However, it was only in the 17th century that Terricciola and the quality of its wine became renowned.

 03 The Badia di Morrona Wine Estate, Terricciola

Today the town is part of the Italian association Città del Vino, ‘Wine Town’ and is part of the Pisan Hills Wine Trail. The typical grape varieties of this area are Sangiovese, Trebbiano, Malvasia, Ciliegiolo and Merlot. Every year in September (this year on the third weekend) Terricciola hosts a Grape and Wine Fête, the oldest of the whole province of Pisa. Another festival we highly recommend is the Strawberry one held in May. Along with strawberry recipes such as the risotto and veal escalope, there are also typical local dishes downed with Terricciola’s excellent wine. In the same month there is also an open cellar event, however, in the surrounding countryside there are many wineries one can visit and taste wines.

 04 Holiday accommodation in Terricciola S75

If you’re planning to visit this part of the Pisan countryside we suggest you stay in this charming 18th-century farmhouse with swimming pool. The farmhouse has 5 large self-catering holiday apartments, all with private, furnished outdoor areas. A perfect position for visiting Pisa, Lucca, Volterra and many other art centres as well as the local wineries.

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Massa, set between white quarry mountains and deep blue sea

01 Marina di Massa 02

The Province of Massa-Carrara separates Tuscany from Liguria and Emilia Romagna and is a paradise for tourists in all seasons. It offers, in fact, both an extensive coastline full of sea resorts and fish restaurants, and the Apuan Alps, a seventh heaven for nature lovers and excursionists, with its mountain trails, refuges, white marble quarries and tiny trattorias which entice with the whiff of mouth-watering dishes.

02 Castello Malaspina 03 FB

The administrative centre of the province is Massa itself, located in the Frigido River Valley, under the shade of the Alps and at just 5 km from the Tyrrhenian Sea. It counts nearly 70 hamlets going from Marina di Massa and a few others on the coast, to the many speckling the surrounding hills and covering the sides of the mountains. Massa is dominated by the 15th-century Malaspina fortress and its centre is made up of a medieval quarter, with narrow, winding streets, and a 16th-century section built by the Cybo Malaspina family.

03 Palazzo Ducale

Of particular interest in Piazza Aranci, a square outlined by orange trees, is the Renaissance Palazzo Ducale with its Baroque stuccoes and colonnade courtyard, and nearby the Cathedral, with its large flight of stairs leading to the main entrance and the magnificent frescoed arcade above the entrance. To foodies, instead, we suggest a trip to one of the hillside trattorias to try the taglierini pasta with beans, or the renowned tordelli of Massa stuffed with meat, or even a dish of lasagne intordellate. Or else one can try the torta di riso, rice pie, both in its savoury and sweet version, and the green quiche stuffed with eggs, cheese and green vegetables (chards, courgettes or borage). Otherwise down on the seacoast a wise choice would be the baccalà alla massese, marinated fried salt code, or the stuffed mussels. Don’t forget this is the Candia dei Colli Apuani DOC wine area, as the vines covering the steep terraced hills bear witness.

04 Accommodation in Massa S238

If you’re planning to visit Massa and its surroundings we recommend this lovely villa with a couple of holiday flats for rent on the first floor. The villa has a large garden with an incredible selection of plants (obviously the owners have a passion for botany) and a unique swimming pool.  A stunning retreat for an unforgettable vacation at the foot of the Apuan Alps.

05 Accommodation in Massa S238

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Colle di Val d’Elsa, the wine town along the pilgrim route

01 Colle Val d'Elsa

On the Via Francigena, the ancient road running from Canterbury to Rome, between Pisa and Siena, lies the town of Colle di Val d’Elsa. Internationally renowned for its production of crystal glassware and art, the town is also officially listed in the Italian Organic Food Town register as well as that of the Città del Vino, Wine Town.

02 Città del Vino

The Wine Town mark is promoted by a National Association which gathers together those towns after which a wine has been named, that produce in their area a denomination of origin wine or that are simply related to wine by history, tradition and culture. The aim is to encourage the promotion and enhancement of the resources of the wine territories: environment, landscape, art, history and tourism.

03 Sienese countryside

Not by chance Tuscan wine speaks a noble and ancient language. For centuries plain farmers and noble families have dedicated themselves to the cultivation of a culture that goes back to when the Etruscans before the 8th century BC were producing wine. In this culture Colle di Val d’Elsa has its place in a territory of extraordinary beauty, rich in gently rolling hills and with shades going from yellow ochre to emerald green.

04 Inside the Crystal Museum

Colle di Val d’Elsa also adds an extra value, its production of crystal glassware and in particular of wine glasses and wine tasting glasses. The production of glassware began in 1331, whereas crystal arrived only in the 19th century. Today, Colle di Val d’Elsa’s production covers 95% of the production of crystal glassware in Italy and 15% of world production. A tour to the town’s Crystal Museum is highly recommended.

05 Accommodation in Colle di Val d'Elsa S189

At just 5 km from Colle di Val d’Elsa is a wine estate with a medieval hamlet transformed into holiday apartments. Here one can enjoy the peace and quiet of the Sienese countryside, explore the nearby art centres of Monteriggioni, San Gimignano, Siena and Volterra, to name a few, as well as follow wine tastings on the estate. Another great opportunity is arriving soon: the grape harvest. This wine estate, in fact, offers the possibility of following the vintage and learning how to make an excellent Chianti Colli Senesi wine. Certainly an occasion not to miss!

06 Grape harvesting

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Greve in Chianti, time again for the Chianti Classico Expo

01 Greve in Chianti, Piazza Matteotti with the wine stands

September is near and as always on the second weekend of September, and the preceding Thursday and Friday, Greve in Chianti is hosting its renowned Chianti Classico wine festival. This year it’s at its 44th edition and will be held from September 11th to 14th.

 02 The wine stands in Piazza Matteotti

The famous triangular square in the centre of town, Piazza Matteotti,  fills up with wooden stands, one for each Chianti winery (over 50 this year), and visitors are invited to buy a ticket with which one also receives a wine glass. The ticket is valid for a specific number of wine tastings at any of the stands (in 2013 up to 8). It is also possible to taste olive oil, served on freshly sliced Tuscan bread, which is salt-less, as well as local cheese. Both wine and olive oil can be bought or ordered at the stands.

 03 Greve in Chianti's pageant

In addition to the wine tasting, the town organizes a variety of events during the four days as well as a pageant which crosses the square, together with a flag waving show. In the nearby streets artists exhibit their works and craftsmen forge their masterpieces.

 04 Accommodation in Greve in Chianti S101

If you’re planning to participate this year we suggest staying in this lovely holiday home with swimming pool hidden amongst olive groves and vineyards of the hills above Greve in Chianti. The villa is a typical Tuscan 17th century manor house, totally renovated, which hosts 4 comfortable and elegantly furnished apartments, whereas other 2 apartments are in an outbuilding. These holiday apartments in Chianti are in an ideal location for all those seeking peace and quiet but also a perfect point of departure for visiting the beautiful attractions of the Chianti region as well as most Tuscan art centres such as Florence, Siena, San Gimignano, Arezzo, Montepulciano and Montalcino.

05 Accommodation in Greve in Chianti S101

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Pisa, not just the Leaning Tower

01 Pisa, Piazza dei Miracoli

Planning a trip to Pisa? Well get ready to discover that this beautiful town is not just about the Leaning Tower and its ‘Miracle Square’, Piazza dei Miracoli. There are many other marvels to discover walking around the city.

02 San Michele degli Scalzi

Actually let’s start with the exploration of Piazza dei Miracoli which can easily occupy several hours, not for nothing it is considered one of the finest architectural complexes of the world. The effort to climb up the stairs of the tower itself is rewarded by the view, from which you’ll see other two leaning towers: the bell towers of San Nicola and San Michele degli Scalzi. The magnificent Romanesque cathedral dominates the centre of the square with its grey marble and white stone façade. On the other side the round Baptistery overwhelms those who enter it with its immensity as well as acoustics. Along the northern edge lies the monumental cemetery, Camposanto Monumentale, believed to be one of the most beautiful cemeteries in the world.

03 Museo delle Sinopie

Across the square sits the Museo delle Sinopie containing the sinopias, preparatory drawings, from the Camposanto. These are red ochre under drawings for frescoes, made with reddish, greenish or brownish earth colour with water. Behind the leaning tower is the small museum dell’Opera del Duomo which contains the statues and other works removed for safekeeping from the cathedral, among which the original Romanesque bronze doors and some originals sculptures of Nicola Pisano and Giovanni Pisano.

04 Scuola Normale Superiore

Walking around town don’t forget that Pisa is a university town, so spend some time to admire the different architecture styles of the various faculties spread around the city. It also houses two academic élite institutions, mostly renowned for in the fields of research and education, the Scuola Superiore Sant’Anna and the Scuola Normale Superiore. The Scuola Normale is not far from Piazza dei Miracoli and is located in the magnificent Palazzo della Carovana in Piazza dei Cavalieri, the Knights’ Square. Built in 1562-1564 by Giorgio Vasari, who also personally designed the façade with a complex scheme of sgraffiti representing allegorical figures ad zodiacal signs, the building was originally intended as headquarters of the Knights of St. Stephen, thence the name of the square. Considered the second main square of town, it contains many buildings of interest amongst which the Palazzo dell’Orologio, the Clock Palace, with the infamous tower dei Gualandi of Dantesque reminiscence, the church of the Knights’ of St. Stephen, the Palazzo del Consiglio dei Dodici and the Palazzo del Collegio Puteano.

05 Santa Maria della Spina

A stroll under the arcades of the medieval quarter of Borgo Stretto leads to the banks of the river Arno, along which many other palazzos and churches can be admired. To the left the National Museum of San Matteo displays a collection of ecclesiastical works spanning from the early Middle Ages to the 1500s. On the other bank, the tiny Gothic church of Santa Maria della Spina cannot be missed with its complicated sculpture decoration as well as the monumental church of San Paolo a Ripa d’Arno, founded around 952, with a green that offers shade and rest while wandering around town.

06 Tuttomondo, Keith Haring

Many more are the churches to visit and the sights to see. The Orto Botanico, for instance is Europe’s oldest university botanical garden being created in 1544. On Lungarno Fibonacci, at the end of Lungarno Galilei, is a fortress converted to public park, Giardino Scotto, which is open in summer for open air cinema, music shows and other events. On the other end of the Arno banks, Lungarno Simonelli, is La Cittadella, a fortress built to guard the access from the sea, once much closer, to the medieval town and shipyard. Last but not least, on the wall behind the convent of Sant’Antonio one can admire Keith Haring’s last public work, the mural Tuttomondo.

07 Accommodaton in Pisa S72

Pisa is a treasure trove to discover, for this reason we suggest to stay at least a couple of days, maybe in this lovely apartment very near Piazza dei Miracoli, situated on the ground floor of a former 17th-century monastery.

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