The Medici Fortress of Arezzo

 01 Medici Fortress

Perched high up over Arezzo’s historic centre is the imposing fortress, whose shadow has been cast on the town since the 16th century when the Medici family ordered it to be built. Designed by Giuliano and Antonio da Sangallo, the Elder, the fortress was built between 1538 and 1560 on the remains of an old medieval stronghold under the direction of Antonio da Sangallo, the Younger and Nanni Unghero.

 02 Medici Fortress one of the bulwarks

The massive pentagon shape of the fortress is compliant with the military architecture of the period. Originally it had three gates and was surrounded by a large moat, in working condition until the late 18th century. On the east side the two bulwarks, known as Ponte di Soccorso and the Chiesa (Church), have angular projections which incorporate part of the older fortress’s construction. The three bulwarks on the west side, known as Belvedere, Spina and Diacciaia, are part of an intricate network of tunnels, wells, air inlets and large rooms positioned on various levels.

 03 St Michael the Archangel, XIV century

At the beginning of 1800 the French troops tried to blow the fortress up with mines; the effects are still to be seen on the west side even though the stronghold was rebuilt in 1868. Bought during those years by the Fossombroni family, in 1893 Count Enrico bequeathed it to the commune. It was adapted during 1896-1904 as a public garden. Inside one of the bulwarks a door belonging to the 14th century original fortress was discovered, adorned with a remarkable statue of St Michael the Archangel that today is preserved in the Medieval and Modern Art Museum of Arezzo.  At the moment the fortress is undergoing renovations, thanks to which, at the beginning of this year, important archaeological discoveries belonging to the Roman age have been made (for more details read here).

 04 Accommodation in Chiassa, Arezzo S158

From the fortress visitors can admire a spectacular view of Arezzo, the Arno river valley and a range of small mountains. For those wishing to visit the area, not far from the Medici fortress, on the hills opposite, is the village of Chiassa Superiore where a lovely villa for 10 with swimming pool stands surrounded by forests, vineyards, olive groves and cypresses.  Here too guests will enjoy a breathtaking view over the surrounding hills, relaxing at the edge of the saltwater infinity pool and enjoying many other facilities as well as visits to Arezzo and other art centres in the area.

05 Accommodation in Chiassa, Arezzo S158

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Poggibonsi, under the shadow of San Gimignano’s towers

San Gimignano

The province of Siena is a great favourite among tourists with stunning regions such as Chianti Senese, Val di Chiana, Val d’Orcia, Crete Senesi and the Val di Merse. However, not many people know that the second largest town of the province, after the capital Siena, is the underrated Poggibonsi hidden under the dominant shadows of the nearby towers of San Gimignano. The main centre of the Upper Elsa Valley, Poggibonsi has a flourishing cultivation of olive groves and Chianti Classico vineyards as well as an active industrial pole renowned for its furniture, pots and glass.

 Convento di San Lucchese, Poggibonsi

Historically its first findings go back to the Neolithic Period, but the most important finds belong to the Etruscan-Roman age, as attested by a series of necropolises scattered on the hills near today’s town. The expansion of the area dates from the 10th to the 12th century when it became significant for its position on the Via Francigena. A superb Ghibelline town, Poggibonsi in 1220 was proclaimed ‘imperial city’ by Frederick II, Holy Roman Emperor, and was considered by 13th-century chronicler Giovanni Villani one of the most beautiful towns of Italy. Unfortunately it prospered only 115 years; considered an obstacle to the expansion of Florence, it was destroyed in 1270 by the Florentine Guelphs and remained under their rule.

 Chiesa di Santa Maria in Talciona

Today the town and its surroundings offer many sights of interest. In the centre is the Collegiata di Santa Maria Assunta, Poggibonsi’s main church, the Gothic-Romanesque church of San Lorenzo built by the Augustinians where in 1495 Charles VIII of France met Girolamo Savonarola, the late 13th-century travertine Palazzo Pretorio with its Torre del Podestà, today seat of the Museum of Palaeontology, and from the early 13th century the public fountain Fonte delle Fate, the Fairies’ Spring, discovered in 1803. An imposing sight is the fortress of Poggio Imperiale built on a project by Giuliano da Sangallo between 1488 and 1511, the most important achievement accomplished by Lorenzo the Magnificent to the strengthen the defences of the territory.

 Castello della Maggione, Poggibonsi

Outside town there is an array of interesting historical buildings such as the impressive Castello della Magione, a medieval castle that belonged to the Knights Templar. The castle includes an ancient church and the “spedale”, a hotel for pilgrims transiting on the Via Francigena. Located on a hill near town is the large gothic convent of San Lucchese, originally built around 1252. At Papaiano is the ancient church of Sant’Andrea of which first records date back to 972. In another hamlet, Talciona, the quaint Romanesque Church of Santa Maria is certainly worth a visit, whilst in Gavignano the church of San Donato is considered one of the most interesting examples of minor Romanesque architecture owing to its state of preservation and the architectural features of its façade. An article of its own deserves the lovely Castle of Staggia Senese of which records go back until 994.

 Poggibonsi accommodation S246

For those wishing to visit this magnificent area, just outside Poggibonsi is an amazing luxury apartment which is part of a tower and wing of the ancient council hall of the Hospitaller Knights of Jerusalem on the via Francigena, dating back to the 11th century. This independent apartment for rent with swimming pool at 9 km from San Gimignano is on two floors and  can comfortably host up to 6/7 people in an area of 180 square meters. An ideal location for a holiday in the Senese.

06 Poggibonsi S246

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A look around Empoli

01 Empoli

Usually off regular tourist routes, even though it’s on the main railway track from Florence to Pisa, is the town of Empoli located at about 20 km (12 miles) from Florence. Sitting in a plain to the south of the river Arno, in the early Roman Empire times Empoli had a tributary flowing through town and this largely favoured the trade of agricultural products (Empoli boasts its own variety of artichoke), ceramics and coloured glassware.

 02 Piazza Farinata degli Uberti and the Collegiata di San Andrea

For those visiting Empoli, the heart of the town is Piazza Farinata degli Uberti, better known by the townsmen as the Lions Square given that the fountain in the centre is adorned by lions. The square is dominated by the Romanesque arcaded façade of the Collegiata di San Andrea, towering from atop its large flight of steps. This church probably existed as early as the 5th century and is mentioned in a papal bull dated 1059. It is decorated with bi-chrome marble stones, with the green ones coming from Prato and the white from Carrara. The church houses remarkable masterpieces among which paintings by Francesco Botticini and a Luca Della Robbia terracotta.

 03 Tower of Santa Brigida

Next to the Collegiata di San Andrea stands the ancient Palazzo Pretorio, the town hall in the Middle Ages, while opposite is Palazzo Ghibellino, the former palace of the Guidi counts. Probably erected during the 11th century, in 1260 it was the seat of the Ghibelline parliament where the fate of the Guelphs of Florence was settled on. Today it hosts exhibitions and meetings. Other sights not to miss are the nearby Augustinian convent and church of Santo Stefano, the sanctuary of Madonna del Pozzo and the many medieval towers picketing town.

 04 Farm stay Empoli S268

Empoli is an excellent place for a base camp, from which to visit most Tuscan art centres such as  Florence, Pisa, Lucca and Volterra. Furthermore in the surroundings is also Leonardo’s birthplace, Vinci, the town of Certaldo, beautiful San Miniato and the be-towered San Gimignano. We suggest following one of the roads out of Empoli, towards the hills, and reaching the hamlet of Martignana where a lovely farm stay  is located. The estate is on the hilltop surrounded by 30 hectares of land and boasts a selection of produce among which an extra virgin olive oil, Chianti wine and a passito vin santo dessert wine.

 

In two of the farmhouses, dating back to the 18th century, the owners have obtained seven comfortable holiday flats, each with its own furnished outdoor space. The large grounds also house a swimming pool and a barbecue. Furthermore, the proprietors offer the possibility of wine and olive oil tasting. Here you will spend your holiday surrounded by nature and a relaxing milieu, enjoying the Tuscan countryside and its breathtaking sunsets at just a few kilometres from most Chianti attractions.

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Chianni, among the olive trees and pines of the Valdera

Chianni

On the woody hills behind Livorno, on Pisan territory, surrounded by age-old olive groves is the village of Chianni. Renowned specifically for its top quality olive oil, with an intense colour and fruity flavour, this medieval town boasts an exceptional culinary tradition and magnificent landscapes. Its woods are frequented by local wild boar hunters and every second and third weekend of November the town holds a festival, considered one of the oldest in Tuscany, where one can savour wild boar dishes and other typical specialities of the rural traditional personally prepared by the local villagers.

 Santuario della Madonna del Carmine, Rivalto

In the surroundings you can find the ancient hamlet of Rivalto, perched on the hillside overlooking a valley of gently rolling hills.  In the distance one can admire the white outcrops of Volterra, at 30 km (18 miles) with a patchwork of different shades of green around it. The village is famous for its chestnuts and thus a favourite Sunday destination for picnics and outings; since 1974 Rivalto holds a Chestnut festival in October. Hidden in a pine grove, instead, is the Santuario della Madonna del Carmine, in a scenic location of extraordinary beauty.

 Chianni accommodation S79

At 300 m (less than 1000 feet) from Rivalto is a holiday home with a breathtaking view dominating the whole valley, right up to the fortress of Volterra. This old stone country house has two self-catering flats, on separate floors, but can also be rented as an independent cottage for family groups. The garden, completely furnished, offers a relaxing haven, while the many walking trails around the village are perfect for exercise and enjoying the surrounding countryside and wildlife.

 Chianni accommodation S79

In a perfect location for visiting most Tuscan art centre, such as Pisa, Lucca, Florence, Siena and San Gimignano, Rivalto and Chianni are also very close to the famous spa centre of Casciana Terme and the magnificent town of Volterra.

Chianni accommodation S79

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Fiesole celebrates its Archaeological Museum’s 100 Years

 Fiesole, Roman theatre

To celebrate the centenary of the Archaeological Museum of Fiesole, this beautiful town just outside Florence is putting on display the ‘spoils’ of 40 Lombard tombs. Besides the skeleton remains found in the tombs, there will also be on show earrings, necklaces, rings, glass bottles and goblets, ancient swords, spears, arrows, shields and other weapons from the 7th century A.D. which were discovered during excavations in, what is here in Fiesole known as, the Garibaldi area. From April 15th to October 31st these magnificent finds will be on show for the first time in the exhibition “Fiesole and the Lombards”.

 Lombard glass goblets, Fiesole

This year, the association of museums of Fiesole is offering two different ways to learn history and also have fun with the initiative “Amico Museo”, the Museum as a Friend. The Archaeological Museum and Area is organizing for May 17th a special guided tour called “Con-tact with the Ancients”, an itinerary for the blind. The Bandini Museum, renowned for its collection of Medieval and Renaissance works of art, instead, has on programme for May 25th a didactic laboratory for children entitled “A day as apprentice in the Della Robbia family workshop”. During the event children will learn how to work with clay as well as the techniques used in Renaissance workshops. Furthermore, every Sunday, until June 8th, the Fiesole Museums are proposing various activities for both children and adults, known as the “Museums’ Sundays”.

 Della Robbias workshop

Another appealing, and above all relaxing, date will be that with yoga. 14 appointments in programme from May to October immersed in the breathtaking backdrop of the Roman theatre and thermal baths. What better place to attain your peace of mind and experience your true self than here at just 8 km (5 miles) from Florence, on a scenic height surrounded by millenary history?

 Etruscan Roman temple Fiesole

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