Oh, The Grand Old Duke of… Tuscany

Farm estate Torrita di Siena, S239

Leopold II, born in Vienna in 1747, was a man of many talents and above all titles. Holy Roman Emperor, King of Hungary and Bohemia (1790-1792), Archduke of Austria, son of Emperor Francis I and brother of Marie Antoinette. Above all from 1765 to 1790 he was the Grand Duke of Tuscany and became renowned as a reformer and intelligent administer, as well as the first in modern times to definitely abolish capital punishment.

 02 Portrait of Leopold II by Johann Daniel Donat

First of all he eliminated the Medici ruinous restrictions on industry and personal freedom and introduced a rational system of taxation which implied the reduction of the rates, as well as execute profitable public works such as the drainage of the Val di Chiana. In this lovely region between the provinces of Arezzo and Siena Leopold also conceived an upgrading of human settlement promoting social advancement and better living and working conditions for the inhabitants.

 03 The Val di Chiana

Leopold II inquired, among others, into the housing situation, demanding to know if the farmhouses were large, warm and airy enough. He discovered that most families were obliged to sleep with the animals and were thus exposed to the inclemency of the weather and to disease and infection. For this reason Leopold allocated a sum for the building of more comfortable houses. The new farmhouses were built with the following criteria: on the ground floor were the stables and cellars, on the first floor a large kitchen with a huge fireplace slightly higher than the floor so as to facilitate the use of larger logs and heat the whole house, and where all the cooking was also done, as well as boiling the washing water and heating the fodder.  The other rooms were the sleeping quarters, one for each family who all slept together. Higher up, in the centre of the house was the square shaped dovecot, also used as a storeroom. These farmhouses became rapidly an architectural feature of the Val di Chiana and the houses became known as ‘Leopoldine’.

 Example of Leopoldine farmhouse, Torrita di Siena S239

Today the landscape is dotted with these beautiful farmhouses, some personal residences, others transformed into ‘agriturismi’, farm estates with holiday apartments, like this lovely one in Torrita di Siena, just a 10 minute drive from Montepulciano. This fine example of Leopoldina farmhouse is under the preservation laws of the Italian Fine Art’s Institute and thus perfectly conserves its original 18th-century architectural style, terracotta tile flooring and wooden beam ceilings, yet offers the modern comforts necessary for a memorable vacation. The building sits on a knoll in front of the village of Torrita di Siena, surrounded by other hills covered with the estate’s vineyards and olive groves. Here it is possible to catch a glimpse of pheasants, roe deer, squirrels, crested porcupines and even wild boars, relax next to the swimming pool and go visit the magnificent art centres nearby: Montepulciano, Pienza, Siena and Arezzo.

 05 Farm estate Torrita di Siena, S239

Just one of our many offers in the Val di Chiana.

06 The typical Leopoldine fireplace inside one of the flats

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San Polo in Chianti, another Tuscan gem

01 The Castle

Tucked away in the Chianti wine district, between Monte Masso and Monte Muro, is the village of San Polo in Chianti, a hamlet of Greve in Chianti, at just 16 kilometres (10 miles) from Florence. Renowned for its centuries-old iris farming, exported all over the world for manufacturing perfumes and cosmetics, San Polo holds an International Iris Festival every May. In Spring the blue blossoms cover the Chianti hills in a breathtaking display.

02 Irises amongst the vines

From the centre of San Polo, a road winds up the hill towards the Val di Rubbiana, where one encounters a small gem of Romanesque architecture, the Pieve di San Miniato di Rubbiana. Evidence of its existence goes back until 1015. Inside the church has three naves, square pilasters, a raised chancel and a semicircular apse. There is still a plaque commemorating an ancient reconstruction and the consecration of the church which took place in 1077.

 03 Pieve di San Miniato di Rubbiana

Just farther up the road is a beautiful castle with holiday flats and a remarkable view over the Chianti valley. The origins of this castle go back to ancient Rome. A Roman centurion, in fact, received this land as a retirement settlement and built a house on one of the hills. During the Middle Ages, the property came into the possession of one of the noblest Florentine families who transformed the house into one of their many castles. During this period was built the oldest part of the building, today still standing. In the nineteenth century, now property of counts, the house was renovated and turned into a hunting lodge, since the lands surrounding it were not only abounding in vineyards but also game.

 04 The property

On the premises there is also a restaurant, actually located in the oldest part of the villa where once the wine was left to age in large chestnut barrels. The restaurant is exclusively reserved for the villa’s guests and offers typical Tuscan dishes. Surrounded by the brick vaulted ceilings and stone walls, visitors will enjoy homemade pasta, game and much more, strictly prepared by the hosts who offer cooking lessons both here and, during the closing period, all over the world. Moreover, the beautiful location and its breathtaking backdrop, plus the excellent cuisine, make this villa a perfect setting for a wedding.

05 The restaurant

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Ancient Roman ‘domus’ unearthed at Arezzo

Arezzo, Medici Fortress

Important discoveries at the Medici Fortress of Arezzo. The works of renovation on this historic building have brought to light a Roman domus dating from around the early decades of the first century AD. The domus was a house occupied by the upper classes and the wealthy freedmen during the Republican and Imperial eras. The one found under the fortress has so far revealed three rooms, two of which partially explored, preserve the remains of painted walls and intact floors.

Mosaic floor

The first room has revealed the presence of a floor of exquisite mosaics with honeycomb decorations consisting of hexagons outlined with black tiles on a patterned background with white tiles, remarkably preserved under the layers of destruction and neglect that have mercifully protected them until now. A second room shows the presence of a mosaic carpet with a mat-like decoration with rectangles outlined in black tiles on the background of white tiles arranged around a square in the centre patterned in black. This floor has various cracks and gaps, one of which is particularly large and reveals an earthenware substitution which attests an ancient restoration. Both floors have been attributed to the Augustan-Julio Claudian eras (late I BC – first decades of I AD). The walls of these rooms, preserved up to a height of half a meter, have a thick plaster wall painting coloured with red, yellow, green and brown on a white background.

The Medici Fortress, Arezzo

Obviously it will be some time before visitors can admire this new discovery. In the meanwhile those planning a visit to Arezzo can admire many other sights such as the main doors, the various palaces and churches, the Archaeological Museum, the Roman amphitheatre and museum, the house of Petrarch and the unmissable Piazza Grande which houses the Saracen Joust and the monthly Antiques Fair.  For accommodations, take a look here at one of our lovely holiday villas with swimming-pool just outside Arezzo.

Arezzo accommodation S162

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Pontormo and Rosso Fiorentino on display now at Palazzo Strozzi, Florence

Palazzo Strozzi, Florence

On show since March 8th at Palazzo Strozzi, Florence, is the major exhibition Pontormo and Rosso Fiorentino. Diverging Paths of Mannerism. Continuing until July 20th, this exposition is devoted to the work of Pontormo and of Rosso Fiorentino, both great Italian 16th-century painters belonging to the Florentine school.

 

This appointment is particularly precious and adds even more value to the already vast superior quality art Florence offers. Thousands of visitors are expected to arrive to admire the different refined styles of the two artists. Pontormo and Rosso Fiorentino were considered the most open-minded nonconformist painters of the sixteenth-century Italian period which Giorgio Vasari defined the ‘modern manner’. This exhibition also portrays a journey through the parallel lives of these artists considered “non identical twins” who towards the end of their journey reached reconciliation.

 

The exhibitions, consisting of over 80 works, offers visitors the opportunity to admire 50 paintings (panel, canvas and removed frescoes) by the two artists, a collection which represents 70 per cent of their production. In addition, there are also drawings, tapestries and engravings, together with illustrations of their masters: Andrea del Sarto and Fra Bartolomeo.

 

If you’re planning a trip to Florence to visit this exhibition we inform you that Trenitalia, the primary train operator in Italy, is offering discounts to customers with membership cards to visit the show. Please check up on their official website. For those wanting to stay in town take a look here at our wide selection of accommodations in the town centre.

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Vagliagli, on the Chianti wine trail

Vagliagli

Located in the heart of a beautiful valley, Vagliagli is one of the most visited Chianti tourist attractions for the beauty of the village and for the magnificent surrounding scenery. A frazione, hamlet, of medieval Castelnuovo Berardenga, the origins of Vagliagli go back to 1226 when the village was first mentioned regarding its Romanesque Church of San Cristoforo. It was considered the Valle degli Agli, Valley of Garlics, from which its name, as well as the town’s coat of arms which figures a hand holding a string of garlic.

 Festa dell'uva 2008

Every year, in late September, the inhabitants of Vagliagli organize the Grape Festival, a tribute to both wine and peasant culture. The village’s intention, in fact, is not only to celebrate the recent grape harvest, but to rediscover the ancient crafts, the folklore, as well as the scents and flavours of the authentic Chianti tradition. During the festival there are photographic and painting exhibitions and parade of floats with villagers dressed up in traditional peasant clothes to help as visual aids.

 Castle

During the Middle Ages and a good part of the Renaissance, this area was constantly contested by Siena (at 15 km) and its great rival Florence. An outpost of Siena, long the Arbia River, was a defensive castle; first mentioned in 1070, during its history the stronghold was destroyed several times. Of the 11th-century construction, today only the church and part of the foundation of the tower remains. In the last centuries the castle was slowly and painstakingly restored and transformed into a farm which today boasts 40 hectares of vineyard and 10 hectares of olive groves.

 Farmhouses

At 200 metres from the winery and cellar a group of farmhouses have been tastefully converted into holiday flats of different sizes and shape and lay huddled around a swimming-pool. These self-catering apartments all have their own private entrance and outdoor space furnished with table and chairs for al-fresco dining. Furthermore there is a restaurant on the premises, right near the pool, which serves delicious local dishes and where also the wine-tasting hall is to be found. Here guests can savour the estate’s Chianti Classico and Sangiovese grapes wine, as well as the traditional Tuscan dessert wine, Vinsanto, and the intensely aromatic extra-virgin olive oil.

 Weddings

In addition, the abovementioned church of San Martino, the restaurant and the estate’s facilities are a perfect location for organizing a lovely, unforgettable wedding in Chianti. Surrounded by age-old forests and fields of vines and olive trees, submerged in centuries of history this day will truly be etched on your mind and that of your guests forever.

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