Cortona Wine Trail – Strada dei Vini di Cortona

Pubblicato il 1 Marzo 2014 da Genni

Cortona

Italy possesses one fifth of the world’s artistic heritage, a concentration of wealth that no other country can boast. Of these riches, Tuscany preserves a good part. This blog has abundantly demonstrated that each Tuscan town, village or hamlet has its own treasure to cherish and display. Among these the protagonist of our last food and wine trail of Tuscany, the twenty-second to be precise: the lovely hill town of Cortona, the main cultural and artistic centre of the Valdichiana, obviously after Arezzo.

Vineyards around Cortona

From a height of 500 meters, Cortona overlooks the magnificent landscape of Valdichiana, dotted with villas, farmhouses and vineyards, testimonies of the ancient history and excellence of its wines. Of ancient origins, part of the Etruscan league, mentioned by Greek and Latin writers such as Herodotus, Dionysius of Halicarnassus, Livy and Pliny the Elder, Cortona has always been a fascinating and fertile site, sitting stately over the Valdichiana. This itinerary is together a food, wine, cultural and touristic trail.

Cortona Convent of Le Celle

Both an Etruscan and a medieval town, traces of both eras can be found everywhere, from the town walls and chamber-tombs, to the finds in the Etruscan Museum and the typically medieval steep narrow streets, together with masterpieces of Renaissance art. A casket of works of art signed by Fra Angelico, Luca Signorelli, Giuseppe Maria Crespi and the natives Pietro da Cortona and Gino Severini, Cortona also contains historical and architectural witnesses of St. Francis’ transit through town, with the striking and highly spiritual Franciscan Convent of Le Celle, the Church of San Francesco and the Basilica of Santa Margherita.

Cinta Senese cold cuts

The charm of the place lies not only in the monuments and the most important highlights, but also in the most unusual sights, of which the city is rich and ever new, together with the typical intense flavours of the countryside one can savour sitting at a table. Next to the vineyards with the precious Syrah grapes, there are (literary) fields of olive groves which in autumn release their precious green-golden juice. Even alone, on a slice of lightly toasted bread, this olive oil is a symphony to the palate. Or a slight trickle on one of the world’s most famous beefsteaks, because let us not forget that this is the valley of the ‘white giant’, the Chianina cattle. Here in Cortona, the Chianina is bred together with the Cinta senese pig, which is reared in a wild state and the cold cuts produced from it are wickedly delicious.

Church of Santa Maria Nuova

The Cortona Wine Trail is a bridge that goes from the traditional resources of the earth to the cultural paths of art, with a will to protect and safeguard the image and prestige of this magnificent land.

Strada dei Vini di Cortona

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The Wine and Flavour Trail of the Maremma Hills – Strada del Vino e dei Sapori Colli di Maremma

Pubblicato il 22 Febbraio 2014 da Genni

Maremma

The Wine and Flavour Trail of the Maremma Hills, located in the north-eastern area of the province of Grosseto, represents the essence and the heart of Maremma itself. It includes thirteen communes of the province and is one of the biggest Food and Wine trails of Italy, offering more opportunities and a vaster choice in a territory that goes from sea to hill and again right up the slopes of Monte Amiata.

 Wine and cheese near the sea

The pride and joy of this land are its six DOC wines, from the renowned Morellino di Scansano (a red wine) to Bianco di Pitigliano (obviously white), from Orbetello’s Parrina (white) to Sovana (either red or rosé wine), from Ansonica Costa dell’Argentario (a dry white wine) to the Capalbio (red, white and rosé wines as well as the dessert Vin Santo). But not least is its extra virgin olive oil, which has formed a perfect union with the local traditional dishes.

 Roccalbegna, the Castle of Triana

On this road of discovery through medieval hilltop towns and seaside fishing villages more is to be experienced.  The imposing Roccalbegna, for instance, a fief of the Aldobrandeschi in the Middle Ages, is home to several notable fortifications such as the Cassero Senese and the Rocca Aldobrandesca, which overlooks the town. Outside town there is the large Castle of Triana and the hamlet of Cana with its 13th-century walls. While in town be sure to try their famous Salt Biscuits, biscotto salato, baked twice with aniseed, it’s the perfect match for a glass of white wine.

 Orbetello, as seen from the convent

Down along the seashore the trail proffers a succession of breathtaking scenes as well as a wide selection of excellent fish products. The waters of the Lagoon of Orbetello, that joins the promontory of Monte Argentario to the continental territory, for instance, are rich in precious fish such as seabass, gilt-head beam, mullet and eel. Special productions are delicacies like botargo and smoked eel, the latter also sold with species and chilli, a typical local dish. The lagoon is also an important and extremely beautiful natural reserve with windmills and many species of birds such as the black-winged stilt, the pink flamingo, the heron, the spoonbill, the pied avocet, the great cormorant and many types of ducks. There are also Etruscan and Roman remains to be seen.

 Pitigliano

Back up on the hills, instead, following the ‘Tuff Trail’ one encounters the magnificent towns of Sorano and Pitigliano. Both towns were directly built onto the volcanic rock and sit on a labyrinth of channels and secret passages carved inside the mountain –at least they say. Pitigliano, the Little Jerusalem of Tuscany, has Etruscan remains (inscriptions in the water channels) as well as many medieval and Renaissance monuments to visit. Sorano has a vast collection of fortresses and churches to flaunt together with some impressive walls, even in nearby hamlet Sovana.

 Between sea and land

This and lots more are to be seen. It’s an area rich in history, tradition and authenticity, which allows visitors both a glimpse and a bite (or sip) of true and authentic genuineness in a paradise between sea and land.

Strada del Vino e dei Sapori Colli di Maremma

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The Montecucco Wine and Amiata Flavour Trails – Strada del Vino Montecucco e dei Sapori d’Amiata

Pubblicato il 15 Febbraio 2014 da Genni

Mount Amiata

On this tour, the Mount Amiata area and Maremma bond to create a single land with a large number of nature reserves, an ancient tradition of strong flavoured dishes with a delicate touch and a countryside of continuously changing sceneries.

Cinigiano

The Montecucco wine (white, red, Sangiovese and Vermentino) takes its name from the Castle of Monte Cucco, built in the 10th century at Cinigiano. This lovely town, with an incredibly high concentration of churches, abbeys and convents as well as various towers and castles, sits on a hill dominating the Valle dell’Ombrone and the last part of Val d’Orcia. All around the wine estates that contribute to the legend of this wine extend, in a grip which includes other 10 towns.

Casteldelpiano

Among these, to mention a few, Arcidosso with its Aldobrandeschi castle, from whose tower one can admire a magnificent view of Mount Amiata. The town’s historic centre is considered one of the most striking of this area and develops in a long pyramid shape under the shade of the castle. Higher up lies the medieval town of Castel del Piano, surrounded by chestnut groves and ski runs, this town has always be an ideal touristic destination in any season.

Seggiano

Seggiano, instead, is considered one of the oldest settlements of the area. Today the medieval walls house three doors, while in the town centre an old collector of rainwater, the cisternone, has recently been renovated to accept an olive plant feed by water vapour. In December the town holds the traditional Olive Festival where it is possible to taste the main protagonist of this flavour trail, the olive oil, as well as other local products.

Saffron cultivations

Obviously, considering the territory, another economical resource are chestnuts. Up on the slopes sheep are bred mostly to produce the renowned pecorino cheese, which can also be eaten with salads, on a bruschetta, grated on pasta, relished with red wine as well as with a dab of honey, another local product. Furthermore, the woods also yield precious truffles and mushrooms, used in so many dishes. Down on the plain instead there are cultivations of saffron reintroduced in the area at the beginning of the last century.

Strade del vino Montecucco

Montecucco and Amiata: certainly a road with gusto.

Strada del Vino Montecucco e dei Sapori d'Amiata

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Wine and Flavour Trail of Monteregio di Massa Marittima – Strada del Vino e dei Sapori Monteregio di Massa Marittima

Pubblicato il 9 Febbraio 2014 da Genni

Colline Metallifere

Divided between the provinces of Livorno, Pisa, Siena and Grosseto is the largest mountain-hill group of the whole of Tuscany: the Colline Metallifere. With the exception of two peaks, Poggio di Montieri and Cornate di Gerfalco, both above 1,000 m (3,280 feet), the area is predominantly hilly and conceals a rich variety of mineral resources, whence the name the “Metal-bearing Hills”. Here the metal resources have been exploited since at least the Etruscan period, reaching its peak of production in the mid-19th century.

Saint Cerbonius Cathedral, Massa Marittima

In the heart of the Grosseto province sits at 380 m (1,250 feet) the beautiful medieval town of Massa Marittima. With a history of mineral exploitation, in the surroundings can be found mineral springs, mines, foundries and ironworks, while in nearby Follonica, on the coast, are the furnaces. The main attraction of town, however, is the magnificent 13th-century Saint Cerbonius Cathedral with its Romanesque-Roman style and Latin cross plan, flanked by its over 37 m (124.2 feet) bell tower.

Massa Marittima

Another main sight of Massa Marittima is the Monteregio Castle, built by the Aldobrandeschi family in the 9th century right in the heart of the old town centre. Later it was used as the bishops’ residence and in 1774 the House of Lorraine turned it into a hospital. Around the hill it was built, the town developed during the centuries. The hill of Monteregio bestowed its name to the various types of DOC wine (red, white, rosé, Novello, Riserva and obviously vin santo) which are produced in the area of the Colline Metallifere of the province of Grosseto that occupies the entire north-western territory.

Montieri

The trail crosses wild, harsh landscapes as well as lush countryside covered in olive groves and vineyards. It passes through magnificent medieval villages and towns such as Monterotondo, Montieri, Follonica, Scarlino, Gavorrano, Roccastrada and Castiglione della Pescaia. Here one can savour the typical tortelli of Maremma (raviolis), the acquacotta soup and the pappardelle pasta with hare sauce. Wild boar instead makes the main dishes or ends up in sausages. However, this is not only a food and wine legacy, this is above all a cultural and natural heritage. Straw and leather, clay and tuff, brier-root and olive wood have been for centuries the raw materials of local handicraft. Meanwhile, medieval castles blend with natural reserves and imposing archaeological sites in a marriage between sea and mountain that is typical of all this Italian peninsula.

 Cala Violina, Scarlino

A trip in this yet undiscovered territory is worthwhile for both the heart and the palate.

Strada del Vino e dei Sapori Monteregio di Massa Marittima

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Cold weather and Tuscan comfort food, the perfect moment for a bowl of Ribollita

Pubblicato il 1 Febbraio 2014 da Genni

Ribollita, bread soup

The weather’s a bit sharp this week here in Tuscany so I thought nothing would be better than a nice steaming bowl of ribollita to warm both the soul and body up. This typical dish is considered a poor one, belonging to the Tuscan peasant tradition, where meat is substituted by bread.  The soup used to be cooked in large amounts in a clay pot and be heated during the following days, thence the name ribollita meaning “boiled again”. Today this dish is a speciality you can find on the menu of Tuscan restaurants.

Kale

This bread soup is a typical winter recipe with seasonal ingredients such as kale and Savoy cabbage. Tuscan farmers state that the dish is better if the kale has ‘frozen’, meaning been caught up in a couple of frosty nights so as the leaves be softened. Other fundamental ingredients are the typical cannellini bean and Tuscan unsalted bread.

Cooking away

The dry cannellini beans must be slowly boiled in plenty of water with a couple of tablespoons of olive oil, a tomato, a clove of garlic, some sage and salt. Once cooked mash more than half of the beans with a fork with their cooking water and leave the rest aside. In a pot fry some sliced onion and garlic in olive oil, then add diced carrot, celery and tomatoes. Cook them on a medium heat for a few minutes and then add the shredded kale, Savoy cabbage and some Swiss chard. Let everything sweat in its juice and then add the mashed beans. Cover with plenty of hot water and let it simmer for an hour over medium heat, or at last until the kale’s leaves are tender. Add the whole beans kept on the side, season with salt and pepper. Stir frequently, because beans tend to stick to the bottom, for 10 minutes. Slice the (no less than) 2 day old stale Tuscan white unsalted bread, place in the soup bowls at least 2 layers of bread and pour the boiling soup over. Let it rest for a couple of minutes, pour a trickle of extra virgin olive oil on it and serve with an excellent glass of red Tuscan Chianti wine. Buon appetito!

Buon appetito

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