The Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Wine Trail – Strada del Vino Nobile di Montepulciano

Montepulciano

Proudly sitting on its hilltop, the medieval and Renaissance town of Montepulciano dominates a scenery which sees the beautiful valleys of Orcia and Chiana convene. According to legend it was founded by the Etruscan king Lars Porsena of Chiusi, however recent discoveries prove that there was already a settlement here in the 4th-3rd centuries BC.  During the Roman era the town was the seat of a garrison guarding the main roads of this area. In the 12th century it was repeatedly attacked by the Republic of Siena but received help from Perugia, Orvieto and Florence, their loyal allies. The mid 16th century was a period of extreme splendour with famous Italian architects building luxurious residences in Montepulciano.

Piazza Grande, Montepulciano

The streets of Montepulciano are a steep roller coaster going up and down the hill finally converging into Piazza Grande. During the walk one encounters the Palazzo Comunale, designed by Michelozzo in the tradition of Palazzo della Signoria in Florence, the travertine Palazzo Tarugi attributed to Antonio da Sangallo the Elder and the magnificent 16th-centruy Duomo. Outside town the imposing Sanctuary of the Madonna di San Biagio dominates the valley with its enormous large dome.

San Biagio, Montepulciano

With the drying of the Val di Chiana the town became the most important agricultural centre in the area and is today a major food and drink producer. Known world-wide for its cinta senese pork, pici pasta, lentils and honey, Montepulciano is yet better known for its Vino Nobile. The origins of this wine are apparently ancient;  firstly mentioned in a document dating back to 789 in which the cleric Arnipert offers the Church a farmland and vineyard located in the Castello di Policiano, the Vino Nobile has been mentioned many times during the centuries by names both illustrious and antique. In 1530 Sante Lancerio, Pope Paul III’s wine expert, defined the Vino Nobile di Montepulciano “Perfectissimo”. In 1685 the poet Francesco Redi declared “Montepulciano is the king of all wines”, so did Voltaire in 1759 in his celebrated ‘Candide’ following on to American President Thomas Jefferson.

Montepulciano vines

Besides the Vino Nobile di Montepulciano and Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva, the local grapes are also used in producing the Rosso di Montepulciano, the Novello as well as the Vinsanto and Grappa. Another typical product of the Sienese hills is the extra virgin olive oil; with the olive groves growing between 300 and 600 m above sea level the acidity level remains very low. Preferably here the olive oil is used “a crudo”, cold, in ‘pinzimonio’, that is as a dip for raw vegetables, on salads, pasta, vegetable soups and on traditional Tuscan dishes such as pulses and the famous bread and vegetable potage ribollita.

Ribollita

The sweet herbs that cover the hills provide the particular taste sheep’s milk adds to the pecorino cheese. Newborn pecorino can be eaten even after 20 days, however, the riper version, of 4 months, is a great favourite in Italy and abroad. Another native product of Montepulciano, together with the others mentioned earlier, is a plum called “Nun’s thigh”, ‘coscia di monaca’, with which the locals make delicious jams.

Montepulciano cellars

So why not come visit the hometown of the poet Poliziano and explore the thick underground network of wine cellars dug in the rock where today the precious durmast casks containing the Vino Nobile rest in peace?

Strada del Vino Nobile di Montepulciano

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The Befana comes by night…

With Christmas and New Years Eve behind us, the holiday season is coming to its end. Here in Italy the final kick comes from an old woman who delivers gifts to children on Epiphany Eve flying through the skies on her broom wearing a black shawl covered in soot. Her name is Befana and she fills the socks of all the good Italian children with sweets of all kinds and presents, while the bad ones receive only lumps of coal, or at least a sugary dark candy version.

As with Santa Claus, the children leave refreshments for the Befana. Being in Italy these are a glass of wine and a plate of food, often regional or local.  Obviously here in Tuscany children leave a sweet tasting glass of golden Vin Santo with the typical oblong-shaped almond cantuccini biscuits.

 Vin Santo and cantuccini

Traditionally in Tuscany, on the evening of the 5th of January, groups of children or adults, accompanied by musical instruments, roam the streets and go door-to-door singing so as to propitiate the Befana and urge more presents. These songs are called the Befanata and particularly persist in the areas of Lucca, Monte Amiata and Maremma. Generally the families who are visited offer foodstuffs of all kinds which are used on the following days for a dinner among singers.

 Befanata choir group

One of the Befanata versions is the following:

La Befana vien di notte
Con le scarpe tutte rotte
con le toppe alla sottana
Viva, viva la Befana!

The English translation is:

The Befana comes by night
With her shoes all tattered and torn
and patches stitched on her skirt
Long live the Befana!

 

The Befana Buona Befana! Wishing you all a good Befana.

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The Orcia Wine Trail – Strada del Vino Orcia

The Orcia Wine Trail is scenically considered one of the most beautiful in the world. It winds through the most characteristic and enchanting part of the Tuscan countryside which also includes the renowned Val d’Orcia, UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2004. This landscape is familiar to all worldwide through its depiction in works of art, starting from Renaissance painting to modern photography.

Here gently rolling hills, rows of cypress trees, castles, abbeys, churches, convents, hamlets and farmhouses make up the setting. Within this area is a strip of land which follows the Orcia River, between the DOCG zones of Brunello di Montalcino and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, where the Sangiovese and Trebbiano-based wines are produced under the Orcia DOC status. Imported by the Etruscans these vines have thrived through the centuries.

The headquarters of the Orcia Wine Trail are located in Castiglione d’Orcia, more precisely at the foot of its castle, the Rocca of Tentennano, which overlooks the entire valley. While worth a visit are also the other fortress, the Rocca Aldobrandesca, the Romanesque church of Santa Maria Maddalena and the magnificent frescoed Church of Santi Stefano e Degna, which also houses a Madonna with Child by Simone Martini and a Madonna with Child by Pietro Lorenzetti. The nearby hot springs of Bagni San Filippo are a must for a relaxing day, as well as beautiful to visit with its calcium deposits and waterfalls. Further ahead, the village of Sarteano, in its strategic point between the Val d’Orcia and Valdichiana, is particularly important from an historical point of view. Inhabited for centuries, Sarteano has a very rich archaeology which includes some important Etruscan tombs.

Northwards, the famous wine town of Montalcino sits on its hill since probably Etruscan times. Dominated by its 14th century fortress and surrounded by its 13th century walls, Montalcino is not just Brunello wine. It has a medieval town centre of great historical and artistic importance. Nearby the majestic Abbey of Sant’Antimo stands amongst fields impassively dominating the countryside while sheep graze near its walls. Founded by the Benedictines probably during the time of Charlemagne, the abbey underwent extensive changes during the years, yet parts of the earlier structure remain visible in the crypt and in the Carolingian chapel. Another important stopping place on the Via Francigena was San Quirico d’Orcia. Of medieval origin, the town has a lovely historic centre with elegant palazzi, churches and the beautiful Italian gardens at Horti Leonini. A popular tourist attraction are the Roman hot springs at Bagno Vignoni. Known since the Etruscan and Roman period, the heart of the village is dominated by the 16th-century rectangular basin, known as the “Square of Sources” since it contains the original source of water that comes from the underground aquifer of volcanic origins.


The ideal Renaissance town of Pienza, as it was intended by Pope Pius II, lies further west. UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1996, this beautiful town charms visitors with its winding alleys and its magnificent Palazzo Piccolomini and cathedral and captures the senses with its excellent pecorino cheese. Another must is the nearby fortified hamlet of Monticchiello with its ancient walls and fortress and lovely 12th century church. Here too is a popular thermal town, Chianciano Terme. Well known during Roman times for the curative power of its water, its close position to the Via Francigena fostered its development allowing the town to reach a degree of judicial autonomy already by 1287 when it established its own statutes. Today the present city is split into two distinct areas: the ancient part, Chianciano Vecchia, sits on top of the hill while the elegant modern quarter has grown around the thermal springs. Also interesting attractions are the Archaeological Water Museum, with Etruscan finds, and the Museum of Art, with a large collection of ancient and contemporary art that have been praised by art journals and newspapers around the world.

Another art museum which houses interesting works by Duccio di Buoninsegna, Pietro Lorenzetti and other Tuscan painters is to be found in Buonconvento, in Latin the “happy place”.The village still preserves part of its ancient walls and buildings of both historical and artistic value and besides the Museum of Sacred Art also boasts a Métayage Museum, which offers an interesting overview on the world of sharecropping between land owner and land-holder. Nearby the doorway to the Crete Senesi region is dominated by San Giovanni d’Asso, overlooked in its turn by a large castle, today home to the White Truffle Museum, a precious and fragrant product of the area. Also of interest in the historic centre are the medieval churches of San Giovanni Battista and San Pietro in Villore. Close by the beautiful town of Trequanda has an overwhelming architectural wealth: a 13th-century castle dominating a luxuriant landscape, churches of all styles and ages, a medieval town hall, a terracotta museum and an 18th-century windmill tower hidden among the holm-oaks. Located between the Val d’Orcia and Valdichiana is the hilltop town of Torrita di Siena. This ancient village today still preserves the towers of the old wall and is renowned for its Donkey Race, the Palio dei Somari, held on the 19th March which also involves plenty of choreographic flag waving.


Further south towards the border with Lazio, lies the medieval hamlet of San Casciano dei Bagni. Renowned for its hot waters, scattered all over the countryside, and for its Medicean spa, legend has it founded by Porsenna, the Etruscan king of Chiusi. Popular during the Roman era its popularity grew until in Renaissance times it attracted visitors from even all over Europe. High up on the slopes, Abbadia San Salvatore is considered the starting point for the top of Mount Amiata. The town is named after its ancient Benedectine abbey which houses numerous works of art. This is the area of the famous Amiata mushrooms which tickle the palate with inviting aromas. Northwest the main landmark standing out against the sky is the Carolingian castle, Rocca, of Radicofani. The castle belonged to Ghino di Tacco, the famous gentleman outlaw celebrated by both Boccaccio and Dante. Also notable is the Romanesque church of San Pietro which houses works by Andrea della Robbia, Benedetto Buglioni and Santi Buglioni.


The Orcia Wine Trail is an invitation to explore this territory and to discover the life that flows with the rhythms of this land. Among the hills, along the road, in the wine cellars and farmhouses enjoy discovering where man still lives in harmony with nature.


Pubblicato in Accommodations in Tuscany, Castles in Tuscany, Culture and accommodations in Tuscany, Tuscan food and wine, Tuscan lifestyle | Contrassegnato , , , , , , , | 2 commenti

The Val di Merse Flavour Trail – Strada dei Sapori della Val di Merse

Wedged between Siena and the slopes of the Metalliferous Hills of the Maremma is the Val di Merse. The region is renowned for its unspoilt nature rich in waters, the rivers Farma and Merse as well as hot springs, and is covered in woods which conceal medieval hamlets and castles.

This area is also famous for the beautiful ruins of the Abbey of San Galgano with its world-famous ‘sword in the stone’. This magnificent Cistercian abbey was built between 1218 and 1288 and was part of the hermitage known as “Rotonda di Montesiepi”. Today only the main walls still remain but the nearby round chapel is perfectly preserved and still safeguards the sword, which according to tradition, Galgano Guidotti (later to become St. Galgano) thrust inside a stone to show his will to change his ruthless life.

The abbey is near the hilltop town of Chiusdino, overlooking both the valley of the River Merse and the Metalliferous Hills. The village has the structure of a fortified castle and dates back to the 9th century. In Chiusdino one can visit the Church of San Martino, the Prepositura di San Michele next to the house where Saint Galgano was born and the church of the Compagnia di San Galgano where there is a beautiful bas-relief depicting the saint cutting the stone with his sword. Near Chiusdino the ancient castle of the Della Gherardesca Counts, the 11th century hamlet of Frosini, is well worth a visit and so are Luriano, Castelletto and the Montalcinello castle.

Nearby medieval Monticiano is on the right bank of the Val di Merse. It is popular for the thermal waters of one of its hamlets: Bagni di Petriolo. Known since Roman times, this spa was so celebrated to be mentioned in one of Cicero’s orations and in one of Martial’s epigrams. During the Renaissance it reached a prestigious status and was frequented by families such as the Medicis and Gonzagas, as well as by Pope Pius II.

Further east lays Murlo, of Etruscan origins, a very old “castle-village”. Built in the 12th century, the castle underwent remarkable changes during the 16th century after the end of the hegemony of the Republic of Siena. The village overlooks the wooded valley of the river Crevole and that of the river Ombrone up to the hill of Montalcino. Remains of Etruscan settlements have been found at Poggio Civitate and Poggio Aguzzo.

Just 10 km west of Siena is the town of Sovicille. Located on the road that links Siena with the Maremma coast, this area has been inhabited since the Stone Age and many prehistoric, Etruscan and Roman remains have been found. Sovicille’s surroundings are rich in historic and artistic treasures, such as the Romanesque parish churches and abbeys, for example at Balli, Pernina, Molli, Ponte allo Spino and Sovicille itself. At Torri visitors can admire a magnificent polychromatic cloister in the 13th-century Abbey of Santa Mustiola. Furthermore, the area is teeming with beautiful villas, medieval castles and ancient mills.

Further north, the ancient Etruscan settlement of Casole d’Elsa is a lovely hilltop village dominating a breathtaking view. A strategic stronghold, its ancient castle was celebrated since the 11th century. Casole and its surrounding hamlets offer visitors many interesting sights such as the ancient Aldobrandeschi castle of Monteguidi, the Villas of La Suvera and San Chimento and the magnificent 12th century parish church of San Giovanni Battista at Mensano with its outstanding sculpted capitals, considered amongst the finest examples of Romanesque sculpture in the whole Siena area.

But the Val di Merse is also a region full of flavour. Among its more typical products are the various precious kinds of cold meat and salami obtained from the Cinta senese pig, renowned for its sublime and delicate flavour. The forest, rich in oaks and chestnut trees, bestow fragrant mushrooms and chestnuts from which delicious dishes are made. The local sheep farming enhances the production of meat and the milk is used to produce an excellent Pecorino Toscano. However, the products that represent the uniqueness of the territory since ancient times are the wine and the olive oil. Today the tables are laid with bottles of Chianti Colli Senesi DOCG and DOCG Riserva, as well as the excellent dessert wine, the Vin Santo DOCG.

The richness of this natural habitat and the variety of landscape deserve to be known and appreciated together with the bountiful products it offers.

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The Golden North Doors of Ghiberti – Florence Baptistery

An exciting discovery has been made during the restoration of the North Doors of Florence Baptistery: notwithstanding time and pollution the original gilding has been found on the twenty-eight panels engraved by Lorenzo Ghiberti between 1403 and 1424 depicting the life of Christ from the New Testament, the four evangelists and the Church Fathers St. Ambrose, St. Jerome, St. Gregory and St. Augustine.

After six centuries the gilded bronze North doors of the Baptistery have literally seen the light thanks to the restoration started a couple of months ago at the Opificio delle Pietre Dure, the Workshop of Semi-Precious Stones, a public institute of the Italian Ministry of Cultural Heritage based in Florence. Here, since 1932, the second branch of the Institute, the Laboratory of Restoration, has been restoring important masterpieces.

It took the Institute 27 years to restore the Baptistery’s Gates of Paradise, but with the experience and technique reached during that colossal work, today Ghiberti’s doors are reckoned to be ready within the end of 2015 for the inauguration of the new Opera’s Museum. To date, two panels are shining again thanks to the Institute’s intervention. These are:

The Baptism of Jesus – here seen before the restoration

During the restoration

And after the restoration

And the Temptation of Christ – before the restoration

During the restoration

And after the restoration.

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