The Wine and Olive Oil Trail of Lucca, Montecarlo and Versilia – Strada del Vino e dell’Olio Lucca Montecarlo e Versilia

Pubblicato il 17 Agosto 2013 da Genni

Last week we were under the shade of the white-topped marble mountains of the Apuan Alps contrasting against the green steep hills of Candia. Today we find them as background to the blue Versilia seacoast, and move towards the plain, surrounded by rolling hills, of Lucca. This area is known as Lucchesia and boasts centuries of agricultural tradition as well as a wide-ranging landscape made of sea, hills, mountains and valleys, spotted with beautiful historical villas and picturesque old villages.

This road commences in the region between the fashionable Riviera resorts of Forte dei Marmi and Viareggio. But Versilia is not only beaches, night clubs and expensive boutiques, it’s also art towns as Serravezza and Pietrasanta, which for centuries have enjoyed the patronage of artists; it is also Roman and medieval villages such as Camaiore and Massarosa; and it is opera music with Torre del Lago, where Giacomo Puccini lived since 1891 and was buried in a mausoleum. Moving on one reaches magnificent walled Lucca and its “one hundred churches” and lovely towers overlooking the narrow streets. A wonderful town to visit on foot or by bicycle, especially on the pedestrian promenade on the old walls encircling it. Moving through the Plain of Lucca, towards Capannori and Matraia, one encounters an historical-artistic legacy of rare beauty and luxury, a patrimony of villas belonging to the 16th, 17th and 18th centuries. Of these the most famous is certainly Villa Torrigiani at Camigliano, magnificent 16th-century Baroque villa, perfect illustration of the wealth that once dwelt in this plain. Further ahead, hilltop Montecarlo, with its well preserved castle, overlooks acres of vineyards, while Altopascio, along the Via Francigena, is renowned for its Knights of the Tau, otherwise known as the Hospitallers of Saint James, who assisted the pilgrims on the way to and from Rome.

The main protagonists of this particular food and wine tour are the DOC red and white wines of the Colline Lucchesi, Hills of Lucca, and of Montecarlo and the DOP olive oil of Lucca. Roman Altopascio is renowned for its bread, so much as to belong to an elitist association of Master Bakers and to hold a Bread Fair. Hidden among the chestnuts and pine trees on the hills over Versilia, the tiny village of Gombitelli has for centuries produced cold meats and salami celebrated for the perfect ageing probably due to the location between sea and mountain. The nearby mountains, instead, have an outstanding production of sheep’s milk cheese, semi-hard or hard, depending on the maturing, and with a high fat content.

As for local dishes, obviously the coastline of Versilia hosts many exquisite recipes with fish, among which the famous Cacciucco, fish soup, of Viareggio, a near cousin of the Livorno version. Camaiore instead brags a personal adaptation of the tordelli recipe, stuffed pasta similar to ravioli, so as Lucca does, and an excellent courgette pie, very flat like a focaccia, called scarpaccia. Inland reign emmer soup, the Lucca soup of kale and chard, the delicious necci, chestnut flour pancakes cooked on a cast-iron griddle directly over the fire and generally spread with ricotta cheese, or nutella, otherwise for the more savoury with cold meat or sausage, and then rolled up. The bucellato, a ring-shaped cake with aniseed and raisins, and the short pastry pie with chocolate torta co’ becchi are other favourites of the sweet-toothed.

Pubblicato in Culture and accommodations in Tuscany, Tuscan food and wine, Tuscan lifestyle, Villas in Tuscany | Contrassegnato , , , , , , | 5 commenti

The Wine Trail of the Hills of Candia and of Lunigiana – Strada del Vino dei Colli di Candia e Lunigiana

Pubblicato il 10 Agosto 2013 da Genni

The province of Massa Carrara, in the north of Tuscany, stretching between the Apennine mountains, the Tyrrhenian seacoast and the Apuan Alps, has always been a crossroad of thoroughfares (the Aurelia in Roman period and the Via Francigena in the Middle Ages) as well as location of various invasions and occupations on behalf of the Romans, Lombards, Normans and a variety of seigniories from the 14th to the 16th century. All this has had a strong influence on creating a strong regional identity which reflects itself in the culinary tradition jealously preserved in the houses of every village.

The Cooperative of the Candia Hills includes the area between Carrara, Massa and Montignoso. These Apuan hills are positioned among the tall, harsh mountains of the Apuan Alps, whose grey hue clashes against the green of these luxuriant, steep hills covered in vines. Just a short plain separates them from the sea. The cultivation of vines on these terraced hills goes back many centuries, documents testify there were wine dealings already in 200 B.C. Since the land is so steep and consists of small terraced strips, the effort of the vine-growers is great compared to how much the harvest yields. The DOC quality assurance label was awarded in January 1981 and regards specifically the production area, the crop production, the grape blends and the wines’ features. The typologies of Candia dei Colli Apuani DOC are sweet, dry and vin santo, whereas the grape varieties are mainly white Vermentino, Albarola, Trebbiano Toscano and Malvasia for the whites and red Vermentino, Ciliegiolo, Massaretta, Buonamico, Barsaglina and Sangiovese for the red wine.

Lunigiana is the historical territory covering the area from the Apennines to the Magra River, which takes its name from Luni, a Roman town but once an Etruscan settlement. And it was, in fact, the Etruscans who started cultivating vines in this area, leaving them to the care of the Romans who started producing the Lunense. Geographically straggling between Tuscany and Liguria, the wines of Colli di Luni were awarded the DOC label in 1990. The whites of Colli di Luni are mainly made of white Vermentino and a minimum of Trebbiano Toscano, whereas the reds are mainly Sangiovese and a minimum of Canaiolo, Pollera and/or Ciliegiolo.

Other local products of this rich, generous territory are cold meats such as the famous lard of Colonnata over the white marble quarries of Carrara, the ‘ham sausage’ of Montignoso just after Massa, the acacia or chestnut honey Lunigiana DOP, the small, pink onion of Treschietto, the caciotta cheese of Lunigiana, the tender beans of Bigliolo. Other excellent products are the different kinds of bread like the Marocca of Casola in Lungiana made with chestnut flour whereas the Marocco of Montignoso is made with maize flour olives, or the bread of Vinca, still baked today in wood-burning ovens. Lunigiana is also famous for its unique and delicious testaroli, made of flour and water and cooked on special cast-iron griddle directly over the fire and then served with pesto or tomato sauce or even just olive oil and grated parmesan cheese. Typical dishes are the various fish specialties along the coast, whereas inland one can find chard pies, taglierini (thin noodles) with beans, the pickled dried cod and the sweet rice cake.

As for sights these magnificent mountains offer many breathtaking views. From the marble quarries of Carrara, to the numerous castles and medieval hamlets in Lunigiana, from Massa dominated by the Malaspina Castle to Pontremoli with its elegant Baroque palaces; this lavish, at times wild, region will never cease to amaze.

Pubblicato in Culture and accommodations in Tuscany, Senza categoria, Tuscan food and wine, Tuscan lifestyle | Contrassegnato , , , , , , , | 1 commento

Tuscany: a map of wine and olive oil itineraries to relish

Pubblicato il 3 Agosto 2013 da Genni

Tuscany, the land of the Medicis, of the Leaning Tower of Pisa, of Leonardo da Vinci, the land of art and culture but also a rich and thriving land for agriculture. From Lunigiana to Chianti, from the Casentino to Maremma, territories of breathtaking landscapes, with rows of vines covering the gently rolling hills and olive groves spotting the scenery. This is a journey to a part of Tuscany once hidden, made of the fruit of the earth and the hospitality of its people, this is a journey through typical local products and flavour.

In 2005 the Tuscan Association of Wine Trails turned into the Tuscan Association of Wine, Olive Oil and Flavour Trails, with the aim to represent a trademark which would give consumers trust in their choice. Luckily this decision also helped to map itineraries for those tourists on the quest for good food and wine at realistic prices, as well as providing Tuscan farmers the great opportunity of directly meeting their clients.

Thanks to the Tuscan Wine, Olive Oil and Flavour Trails, visitors discover the hidden corners of this land, the country houses, farms and wineries where you can taste the local products and the best wines. They can take a glimpse at where the most famous grapes in the world are grown, discover the techniques of production, explore farms and taste their produce. All this in close contact with the “locals”.

Today the Association counts 22 trails. An imaginary thread that connects the vineyards of the Colli di Candia and Lunigiana to those of Lucca, Montecarlo and Versilia, the Olive Oil Road of the Pisan hills to that of the Etruscan Coast, the chestnut groves of Mugello to the honey of the Casentino, the renown reds of Chianti Classico to those of the Medici Trail in Carmignano, the precious saffron of the Orcia Valley to that of Maremma. Roads passing through unforgettable landscapes, famous throughout the world.

In a symphony of red and white grapes and golden olive oil, these Tuscan trails reveal itineraries that cross through or in front of fields of Chianina white cattle, wheat for tasty bread and pasta, sheep whose milk produce excellent pecorino cheese, fields of legumes of all kinds and sizes, chestnut groves with delicious mushrooms at their feet, beehives and much, much more all combined with the pleasure of discovering historic towns and their hidden art treasures.

Justice can only be done taking each trail one by one and devoting an article to each. In the meanwhile here’s a list of these routes wishing you the luck to encounter their road sign in your journey around Tuscany:

1) Strada del Vino dei Colli di Candia e Lunigiana, 2) Strada del Vino e dell’Olio Lucca Montecarlo e Versilia, 3) Strada del Marrone del Mugello di Marradi, 4) Strada dell’Olio Borghi e Castelli della Valdinievole, 5) Strada dell’Olio Monti Pisani, 6) Strada dell’Olio e del Vino del Montalbano, le colline di Leonardo, 7) Strada dei Vini di Carmignano e dei sapori tipici pratesi, 8) Strada del Vino Colline Pisane, 9) Strada del Vino Chianti Montespertoli, 10) Strada del Vino e dell’olio Chianti Classico, 11) Strada del Vino Terre di Arezzo, 12) Strada dei Sapori Casentino, 13) Strada dei Sapori Valtiberina, 14) Strada del Vino e dell’Olio Costa degli Etruschi, 15) Strada del Vino Vernaccia di San Gimignano, 16) Strada dei Sapori della Val di Merse, 17) Strada del Vino Orcia, 18) Strada del Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, 19) Strada del Vino e dei Sapori Monteregio di Massa Marittima, 20) Strada del Vino Montecucco e dei Sapori d’Amiata, 21) Strada del Vino e dei Sapori Colli di Maremma, and last, but certainly not least, 22) Strada dei Vini di Cortona.

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Special effects in Livorno with Effetto Venezia

Pubblicato il 27 Luglio 2013 da Genni

Every year, usually between July and August,  Livorno hosts one of Tuscany’s greatest summer happenings: Effetto Venezia. The event takes place in one of the most ancient and characteristic neighbourhoods of the city, in Venezia Nuova, New Venice, a dense network of canals that once served to link Livorno’s warehouses to the port. Built in 1629, by the will of Ferdinando II de’ Medici, the new district was recuperated from the sea and linked to the town with bridges in a complicated work of intersection, for this skilled Venetian workers were recruited and thus the name. Today, Venezia Nuova, retains much of its original planning and architectural features and is the real historical centre of this city, which since the Middle Ages was an international, strategic port and to later become an enlightened European city.


Since 1986, in summer the bridges and narrow lanes of the New Venice district are enlivened by stalls full of international food or handicrafts, shows, buskers and cultural events. Every year Effetto Venezia adopts a different theme which is recalled by the shows during the event. These have ranged from international identities – “Scents of Spain” (2010), “la Douce France” (2011), “Mythical Greece” (2012), “la Bella Italia” (2013) – to more socially committed themes such as “Livorno, land of rights” (2015) and “Urban dignity” (2016).

With 15 stages and over 80 events, every year there are concerts, cooking shows, photo exhibitions, a tour of the canals by boat, conferences, book presentations,  dancing exhibitions, and much more.

As always there will also be street artists, marching bands, itinerant concerts, classical concerts, exhibitions, and much more, not to forget the many different food stalls with dishes from all over the world, in memory of the internationality that has always characterized this beautiful port town on the Etruscan Coast.


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UNESCO’s World Heritage List adds other 14 Tuscan locations – Part Two

Pubblicato il 20 Luglio 2013 da Genni

Up to now our visit of the newly inscribed Medici properties in UNESCO’s World Heritage list has been in and around Florence. Now let us embark for other regions of Tuscany.


Villa Medicea di Cafaggiolo, in fact, is situated near Barberino di Mugello, north of Florence. It is one of the oldest of the Medici family estates, having been owned since the 14th century by Averardo de’ Medici, whose son, Giovanni di Bicci de’ Medici, is considered the founder of this great dynasty. Cosimo de’ Medici (the Elder) had the villa reconstructed in 1452 by the prominent Renaissance architect Michelozzo and soon the villa became the meeting place for some of the greatest intellectuals of the Italian Renaissance. In 1495, two brothers from Montelupo Fiorentino, under the Medici patronage, here started up the kilns for manufacturing the tin-glazed earthenware known as maiolica.


Located near San Piero a Sieve, also in the Mugello region, is Villa del Trebbio. Probably the first Medici villa built outside Florence, the manor house is to be found on a strategic position dominating the Val di Sieve, near a crossroads (from which the Latin name trivium). Here too Michelozzo remodelled the villa, restyling it as a fortified castle, preserving the windowless tower, moat and drawbridge and adding a perimeter walkway with corbels. There was once a walled garden in which Cosimo de’ Medici loved to retreat; today’s garden, with roses and box hedges, was designed in the 20th century.

Outside Florence, at Vaglia, on the road for Mugello is the Garden of Pratolino. Once there was also a Medici Villa, designed and built from 1569 to 1581 by architect Bernardo Buontalenti for Francesco I de’ Medici, unfortunately demolished in 1822. In Francesco’s time the garden was a splendid example of Mannerism, with visitors, still today, walking under a cooling arch of fountain jets without getting wet. After Francesco’s death the villa and garden were deserted and in the 18th century many sculptures were removed to adorn the Boboli Gardens. In 1820 the garden was re-designed as an English garden and become one of the most romantic gardens in Tuscany. 50 years later the property was bought by Prince Pavel Pavlovich Demidov who restored the Paggeria, the pages’ lodgings, as Villa Demidoff di Pratolino. One of the most famous sights of the garden is the brooding statue of the Apennine Colossale, a huge sculpture by Giambologna (1579-1580) standing 14 meters tall, with the lower part occupied by a hexagon grotto from which, by means of a stairway, visitors have access to a room made out of the body and head of the statue and with the light entering through the eyes.


Towards the west of Florence, instead, located on a hill opposite the medieval hamlet of Artimino, in the municipality of Carmignano, is the Medici Villa di Artimino, also known as La Ferdinanda or the Villa of the Hundred Chimneys. Commissioned by the Grand Duke Ferdinando I de’ Medici, the villa was designed and built in 1596 by the architect Bernardo Buontalenti. Today the villa hosts conferences, wedding ceremonies and other special events, while the basement houses the Town Archaeological Museum.


Further north, the Villa di Poggio a Caiano was built by Lorenzo the Magnificent at the foot of the Albano hills, between Florence, Prato and Pistoia. Building began around 1485; this time the plans were of the architect Giuliano da Sangallo and reflect the Humanist trend in architecture inspired by classical antiquity. The main hall is splendidly decorated with allegorical frescoes celebrating the Medici family, painted by Andrea del Sarto, Pontormo, Franciabigio and Alessandro Allori.


Towards Pistoia, in the centre of Quarrata, is Villa La Magia another hillside strategic building. The villa was bought by the Medici family in 1583 who thought it doubly strategic since its hunting grounds bordered with those of the villas at Poggio a Caiano, Artimino, Ambrogiana and Montevettolini, like satellite villas around Mount Albano. Bernardo Buontalenti renovated it in 1584 embellishing the very simple quadrangular plan. The Italian garden was created only between the 17th and 18th centuries by the Attavanti family. Today the Villa’s park hosts contemporary environmental art by artists such as Fabrizio Corneli, Anne and Patrick Poirier, Marco Bagnoli, Hidetoshi Nagasawa and Maurizio Nannucci.


The farthest of all the villas and gardens is the Palazzo di Seravezza, sitting at the foot of the Apuan Alps, at just 8 km from the sea of the Versilia Coast. This villa was built by Cosimo I between 1560 and 1564 on the design of an unknown architect. Seeing the analogies with Villa di Artimino the architect is believed to be Bernardo Buontalenti. The area of Seravezza was strategically important for the dominion of Versilia and for centuries had been contested between the Republics of Pisa, Lucca, Genoa and Florence. For this reason Cosimo decided to build a defensive military outpost as one can guess from its solid, compact structure with slits. However, it soon became a leisure residence where the Medicis and friends would come to hunt or enjoy the lovely Italian garden. Since 1996 the villa hosts the Historical Versilia Museum of Trade and Folk Traditions.

Here, briefly introduced, are the 12 Medici villas and 2 pleasure gardens recently inscribed in UNESCO’s World Heritage list. They go along with the other Tuscan towns and sites celebrated during the years by the same UN agency: the historic centre of Florence, the Cathedral Square of Pisa, the historic centre of San Gimignano, that of Siena, as also of Pienza, and the magnificent Val d’Orcia. What better acknowledgment of the magnificence of this region we love so much?


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