UNESCO’s World Heritage List adds other 14 Tuscan locations

The 37th session of the World Heritage Committee was held in the Kingdom of Cambodia from June 16th to 27th. During the meeting new sites were added to the World Heritage list among which even Italy’s Mount Etna. However what makes us particularly proud are the twelve villas and two pleasure gardens of our personal Tuscan legacy.

Stretching across the Tuscan countryside, these villas and gardens together are proof of the influence, as patronage of the arts, the Medici family wielded over European culture. The Medicis, in fact, introduced a new type of princely residence, totally different from the farms owned by the rich Florentines or from the military castles of barons. For the first time, this innovative family had villas built in harmony with nature and dedicated to leisure, the arts and knowledge. This integration with the natural environment gave rise to appreciation of landscape so typical of Humanism and the Renaissance. But let’s take a closer look at these sites.

Among the first of the oldest Medici villas, Villa di Careggi, near Florence, was remodelled by Medici court architect Michelozzo to resemble a fortified castle after its purchase in 1417 by Cosimo di Giovanni de’ Medici (Cosimo the Elder). It is known as the site of the Platonic academy that Cosimo founded, and here he died in 1464. It was Cosimo’s nephew, Lorenzo de’ Medici, who later extended the terraced gardens and the shaded wood. Bought in 1848 by an Englishman, Francis Sloane, the landscape changed with the addition of exotic plants such as Cedar of Lebanon, Himalayan cedars, Californian sequoias and eastern Mediterranean shrubs and palms.

The Villa Medici in Fiesole was built between 1451 and 1457 by the above mentioned architect Michelozzo, but this time with a more outward-looking, Renaissance character. Strangely this villa is the best preserved of the Medici villas, yet at the same time one of the least known. Unlike the previous villas, this had no connections with the farming life. It was, in fact, constructed as setting of the aesthetic and ideological values of the family, receiving the artists, philosophers and men of letters of the period. The magnificent garden, on three terraces, owing to the villa’s position on a sloping land, was created in different periods. The third terrace, between 1911-1923, by Edwardian garden designer Cecil Pinsent, was laid out in the Italian style with a fine pergola.

On the slopes of Castello, near Florence, is Villa di Castello, whose magnificent gardens are second only to those of Boboli. The estate was bought by Lorenzo de’ Medici in 1477; here he housed Renaissance masterpieces such as Botticelli’s “The Birth of Venus” and the “primavera”. Today the Villa is not open to the public because seat of the Florentine literary academy, the Accademia della Crusca (Academy of the Bran), but visitors may enjoy the splendid garden, a representation of Cosimo I de Medici’s (Cosimo the Younger) rise to power as Grand Duke of Tuscany. It was he, in fact, in 1538 that had the garden planned according to a complex symbolical design in which the statues, fountains and grottoes celebrated Cosimo’s new status.


Also on the hills of Castello, outside Florence, is Villa La Petraia probably one the most attractive of the Medici villas, on account of both its position, overlooking Florence, as for its fine pictorial decoration and superb garden and park. Unlike the other villas, marked by their military importance, their hunting grounds or their representative function, this one was exclusively used as a residence. Particularly magnificent is the frescoed courtyard (1637-1646) celebrating the Medici ancestry by Baldassare Franceschini. Originally an ancient fortified residence, as the great tower testifies, it was enlarged at the end of the 16th century to create the present villa with its beautifully designed terraced garden.


Rising behind the Pitti Palace, in Florence, are the beautiful Boboli Gardens. Originally designed for the Medici, these gardens are one of the earliest examples of Italian garden, later to inspire so many European courts. The gardens extend over a vast area forming an open-air museum with antique and Renaissance statues, grottoes and large fountains. Exploring the numerous, as well as various, paths visitors relive the spirit of life at court as well as experience the age-old natural cycle of the garden.


Situated near the Fucecchio Wetlands is Villa di Cerreto Guidi. Built in 1556 by Cosimo I as a fortified hunting lodge on the ruins of the former castle of the Counts Guidi, the villa is attributed to the architect Buontalenti. Here on the 15th July 1576 took place the brutal murder of Isabella de’ Medici, by her husband Paolo Giordano I Orsini, probably aided by one or more assassins. Since 2002 the building hosts the Historical Hunting and Territorial Museum, with a large collection of firearms of the 17th-19th centuries.

On the hills of Arcetri, near the Gardens of Boboli, is Villa del Poggio Imperiale, a predominantly neoclassical grand ducal villa. The extraordinary history of this villa has it originally the residence of the Baroncelli family, later seized by the Cosimo I de’ Medici, who bequeathed it to his daughter Isabella, the same to be murdered at the Villa di Cerreto Guidi by her husband Paolo Giordano I Orsini. It then became the lavish retreat of the Archduchess Maria Maddalena of Austria and much later given to one of Napoleon’s sisters. In spite of witnessing the somewhat turbulent history of Italy, and being redesigned and rebuilt many times, today the villa has been converted into a prestigious girls’ school.


We are yet only half way through visiting these newly inscribed world heritages. I suggest a little break so as to savour the remaining with more relish.


Pubblicato in Castles in Tuscany, Culture and accommodations in Tuscany, Senza categoria, Tuscan lifestyle | Contrassegnato , , | Lascia un commento

Insalata di Farro del Mugello – Mugello’s Emmer Salad

Summer: time for rice salads and al fresco dining. A good glass of wine and a beautiful view, what more can one ask for?

Maybe the view is over the historical Tuscan region of Mugello. Just a few kilometres from Florence, this area is internationally renowned for its famous race track and often wrongly neglected. The magnificent landscape of mountains, hills and plains, interspersed with rivers, streams and scattered with villages, isolated farmsteads and the historical villas of the Medicis has much to offer visitors. As also a rich culinary tradition which exploits the organic products of this land.

One of my explorations in the territory, during a hot summer, brought me to try this Farro Salad, typical of the area. I know there are many discussions regarding the Italian word farro and its English equivalent being either spelt or emmer. First of all this area only grows emmer, so that’s easy; however, for Italians farro can either be small and thus it’s einkorn, or medium, and this is our emmer, or large, which is the much controversial spelt.

However, if you have either emmer or spelt this salad with genuine, fresh products will also be an outstanding dish for you and your guests. So here we go: Ingredients (serving 4): 400 gr. of emmer, halved grape tomatoes, Parmesan cheese in small pieces, sliced spring onion, sliced black olives, capers, oregano, salt, chopped basil and extra virgin olive oil.

Follow the soaking & cooking time instructions on your packet of emmer. Some brands don’t even need to be soaked before. Remember to add the salt towards the end of cooking. Once the emmer is cooked, drain and rinse with cool water. In a large bowl combine all the ingredients prepared while cooking the emmer. Gently stir in the emmer until combined. Dress with the olive oil. Chill at least one hour before serving. Recommended with a good bottle of Chianti Rùfina, produced right in Mugello.

Emmer is also delicious with fish, so also try adding tuna fish, shrimps or even baby octopus.

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Calcio Storico Fiorentino – the real ‘kick game’

This month sees the return of the historical Florentine football game, the Calcio Storico Fiorentino, in which the four quarters of the town compete in 16th-century historical costumes against the magnificent backdrop of Piazza Santa Croce. The teams are made up of (blue) Santa Croce, (red) Santa Maria Novella, (white) Santo Spirito and (green) San Giovanni. The prize is a white Chianina calf. The matches are always played in June, with the finals held on Patron Saint’s Day, the 24th of June.

The origins of the “Florentine Kick Game” – Giuoco del Calcio Fiorentino, where calcio simply means kick – are controversial. Some say they originated in the 16th century, the association itself of the Calcio Storico Fiorentino say from ancient times when the Greeks were playing the Sfermomachia, later adopted by the Roman army as a training mode. This ball game, known by the Romans as Harpastum, was in fact very violent and involved considerable speed, agility and physical exertion. Undoubtedly this continuous body-to-body and head-to-head competition was a huge success among warriors and spread quickly throughout the Roman Empire. Played by two even-numbered teams, it was performed on a sandy ground with a large ball stuffed with rags. The aim was to get the ball into the opponent’s field using any means.

Maybe the game was imported to Florence in 59 A.D. during the founding of Fiorenza, the historic Florence, by retired Roman warriors and their families. What is certain, however, is that in the second half of the 5th century, this early form of football was widespread among the youngsters of Florence who habitually played it in the streets and squares of town. Apparently, it was even played on the river Arno when it completely froze in January 1490.

The official rules of Calcio Fiorentino were published for the first time in 1580 by Giovanni de’ Bardi, a Florentine count. As according to those rules today’s game is played on a field covered with sand with a white line dividing it into two identical squares and a goal net running the width of each side. The teams are of 27 players, who can use both feet and hands, and are made up of 4 datori indietro (goalkeepers), 3 datori innanzi (fullbacks), 5 sconciatori (halfbacks) and 15 innanzi or corridori (forwards). Neither the Capitan nor the Alfiere (flag bearer) participate. Tactics allowed are head-butting, punching, elbowing and choking but severely forbidden are sucker punching and kicks to the head. No substitutions are expected. To referee the match there is a Giudice Arbitro (main referee), six segnalinee (linesmen) and, above everyone, a Maestro di Campo (field master) who makes sure everything runs smoothly, stepping in if necessary.

The game starts when the Pallaio throws the ball towards the centre line; a small cannon –a culverin to be precise- is fired and ‘hostilities’ are announced. Each game lasts 50 minutes within which the players, using any means necessary, try to get the ball into the opponents’ goal. The teams change sides each time a point, cacce, is scored.

Preceding the final match is an impressive historical costume parade of over 530 participants with strictly Renaissance costumes, in memory of the deeds of the Republic Army, the period during which Florence was governed by the People. For this reason, the Calcio Storico Fiorentino is an authentic tradition, deeply-rooted in the city’s social structure.

Another good opportunity to spend some days in Florence and be part of the tradition, profiting from our large selection of accommodations right in the centre of town, some right on the corner of Piazza Santa Croce.

Pubblicato in Culture and accommodations in Tuscany, Folklore and accommodations in Tuscany, Tuscan lifestyle | Contrassegnato , , | Lascia un commento

Giugno Pisano – June is Pisa’s month

June is a very special month for Pisa. In fact, it is the period in which the town celebrates most of its historical events and traditions.

Every year, on the night of the 16th of June, the river Arno reflects the million trembling lights of the Luminara of Saint Ranieri. The patron Saint is celebrated on the 17th and the night before Pisa has over 70.000 candles lighted up. The candles are fixed onto white wooden frames and attached to buildings and bridges so as to model the outlines. Even the Leaning Tower is illuminated by oil lamps, which are also put on the city walls of the Miracle Square. The evening ends with a spectacular firework show which turns the Arno into a kaleidoscopic light display.

On June 17th, the afternoon is dedicated to the celebrations of Pisa’s patron Saint, Ranieri. In memory of the town’s ancient past as a Maritime Republic the 4 oldest town quarters compete in the Regatta. On the Arno 4 boats row upstream from the Railway Bridge to the finish line in front of the Medici Palace on Lungarno Mediceo. The winner is not the fastest boat but the team whose climber succeeds in reaching the top of a 10 metre mast anchored at the finishing line and grasping the banner of victory. This is the re-enactment of the Battle of Lepanto when the fleet of the Knights of Saint Stephen boarded the Turkish flagship of Ali Pacha and stole the Muslim pennant waving on the mast. This banner, together with many other naval battle spoils, can today be seen in the Church of Santo Stefano dei Cavalieri.

On the last Sunday of June Pisa celebrates its renowned Gioco del Ponte, the Battle of the Bridge. It begins with a pageant of over 700 participants that proceeds along the river Arno until the Ponte di Mezzo. Following, the two city factions, Mezzogiorno and Tramontana, march separately but at the same time anticlockwise along the streets that will finally lead to the bridge. Each faction has various quarters, thus teams. On the Tramontana side are Santa Maria, San Francesco, San Michele, Mattaccini, Calci and Satiri. On the Mezzogiorno side: Sant’Antonio, San Martino, San Marco, Leoni, Dragoni and Delfini. Ending the procession is the parade of the Judges, with over 81 participants. Finally on the Ponte di Mezzo the two opposing factions give proof of their physical strength trying to conquer the bridge by pushing a cart, and all the opponents, to the opposite side.

Every four years Pisa in June also hosts the Regatta of the Ancient Maritime Republics. Since 1956, in turn the 4 Maritime Republics, Amalfi, Genoa, Pisa and Venice, host this event in memory of the past. The race is preceded by an impressive pageant of 320 participants, 80 for each Republic, where characters and events of the past are evoked, in memory of when the fleets of these 4 ancient cities were ploughing through the seas spreading their culture and commercial dominion throughout the Mediterranean.

Furthermore in June Pisa is full of other events such as exhibitions, sagras, concerts and historic pageants. Plus being a university town, don’t forget that the centre is full of pubs, pizzerias, restaurants and bars. Take a look at our selection of accommodations in and around Pisa and plan your trip to the town of the Leaning Tower.


Pubblicato in Culture and accommodations in Tuscany, Fêtes & showcases in Tuscany, Folklore and accommodations in Tuscany, Tuscan lifestyle | Contrassegnato , , | Lascia un commento

Siena’s Panforte: PGI label and recipe – benvenuto Panforte tra le eccellenze IGP

Welcome to Siena’s panforte among the Italian excellencies. After the delicious almond ricciarelli biscuits, another sweet delicacy of this beautiful town has this week received the PGI label: the protected by geographical indication brand which confirms the genuineness and exclusivity of a traditional speciality.

With this new entry in the PGI list, Tuscany has now reached a total of 26 specialities of the overall 251 products of the Italian survey. Tuscany, in fact, now has 5 extra virgin olive oils, 5 chestnut products, 4 cold meats and salami, 2 cheese, 3 meat, 1 cereal, 1 honey, 1 mushroom, 1 bean, 1 spice and finally 2 sweet delicatessens: the abovementioned Ricciarelli and Panforte, both of Siena.


Literally, panforte means “strong bread” owing to the spicy pungent flavour of this dessert containing fruits and nuts. Dating over 750 years, documents of 1205 reveal that panforte was used to pay taxes to monks and nuns of a local monastery. Today you can find it all year round in Siena and surroundings, but traditionally in Italy it is a Christmas speciality and now comes in different types.

The process of making the traditional panforte is relatively simple. Following are the ingredients:

450g of unshelled almonds (not blanched)

150g of flour

350g of sugar

120g of honey

Half a teaspoon of ground nutmeg

Half a teaspoon of ground cinnamon

350g of candied fruit (orange, citron)

2 tablespoons of icing sugar

3 dried cloves

40g of rice paper

5g of dried coriander fruits

10g of ground black pepper

Put the almonds on a baking tray and toast them in the oven for 10 minutes.

Cut the candied fruit into small pieces.

In a saucepan melt over a low flame the honey together with the sugar. Keep mixing so that it doesn’t stick to the pan. Once it gets a brownish colour take it off the stove and add the almonds, the flour, the candied fruit, the ground nutmeg, the pepper, the ground cinnamon, the cloves and the dried coriander fruit all previously crushed. Mix everything well.

Cover the bottom of a round baking tin, preferably springform, with rice paper. Pour in the mixture, which should be 2 cm thick, and bake in the oven at 150 °C for 30 minutes.

Once cool take the cake from the tin and dust with icing sugar. The cake must be served cold.


Enjoy a wedge of your panforte with an espresso coffee or a dessert wine.

Pubblicato in Tuscan food and wine, Tuscan recipes | Contrassegnato , , , | Lascia un commento