Lucca and its walls: Itineraries of the Risorgimento

View of Lucca

Bastion of San Colombano

Lucca is celebrating the 150th anniversary of the Italian Unification with five exhibitions, a website offering a virtual tour as well as a real itinerary through town uniting some of the most important monuments connected to the Risorgimento period. From the Bastion of San Colombano to the historic Record Office, from the State Library to the Museum of Villa Mansi: a combination of memorable sights.

The Guinigi Tower

The event traces the different phases of the Italian Risorgimento through the study of the genesis of the events and fate of some monuments, highlighting the different ways in which the people of Lucca perceived and interpreted the message of unification between 1861 and the end of the 19th century. Not only documents and images centring on the protective walls of town but also a website with spectacular 360° images of important sights of town: from the Clock Tower to the Guinigi Tower with its oak trees on top, from the Princes’ Hall to the Savoia Hall, to discover the secret city.

The promenade on the walls

The first of five exhibitions concentrates on the transformation of the town’s walls into a promenade during the rule of Elisa and Felice Baciocchi. Modified to reduce their “warlike” aspect in the beginning of the 19th century, the drawbridges at Saint Maria’s Gate and Saint Donato’s Gate were replaced with a walled road and a new gate, Gate Elisa, was opened on the East side of the walls, those facing Florence. The final transformation of the walls into a public promenade included an extension of the same flanked by elm trees. It was Maria Luisa of Spain, Duchess of Lucca from 1815 to 1824, who set up a special ‘Public Embellishment Court’, also taking care of restoring and embellishing the walls, in the attempt to transform the town into a small capital.

San Michele in Foro

Another exhibition lingers over the restoration works on the front façade of San Michele In Foro. Started in 1866, the same year the Town Council of Lucca purchased the walls, the works, directed by the architect Giuseppe Pardini, were necessary because the façade was seriously dilapidated. Encouraged by the celebrations of the Italian Unification, Pardini sustained the need to represent some of the men who had contributed to the history of Italy by social and national progress. For this reason Pope Pius IX and Napoleon III are portrayed alongside King Vittorio Emanuele II and Camillo Benso di Cavour, whereas in the second order of small arches Carlo Alberto di Savoia, Bettino Ricasoli and Napoleon I complete the political picture. Beside them, not very appropriately,also the unmistakable face of Dante Alighieri.

Detail of the façade, Dante

All the other figures represented in the busts on the façade come from medieval history, theology, literature and science. In the fourth order of small arches we find the saints, whereas the third order contains Alessandro Volta, Christopher Columbus, to create a pantheon of heroes, politicians and wise men but to meet with stiff compromise and at least satisfy the members of the commission supervising the restoration works, the façade lost its uniformity and became a confused “pastiche”.

The sarcophagus of Ilaria del Carretto

Another important event happening during the period of the Italian Unification and today related for the celebration regards one of the towns works of art. When Lucca became a province of the Kingdom of Italy, the sarcophagus of Ilaria del Carretto, a masterpiece by Jacopo della Quercia, was lying, almost forgotten, resting against the north wall of the north transept of the Cathedral. A position chosen for the lack of one of the long sides of the casing, separated from the monument as long ago as 1544. Discovered in the cellar of the Guinigi Palace approximately at the beginning of 1828, this piece was sold to the antiquarian Pietro dal Poggetto. In February of the same year Antonio Mazzarosa proposed purchasing this piece to the then Minister of Internal Affairs. The request was not accepted and the antiquarian was thus able to sell the panel to the Florentine Paolo Casagrande who, in turn, sold it to Giovanni Dini. From the latter it passed to the Uffizi Gallery. The question of the tomb panel, never forgotten by the people of Lucca, once again came to light in 1874 in an article signed R (Enrico Ridolfi?) which recalled, as an example of poor administration, precisely the incident of “one side of the casing of the very fine sarcophagus of Ilaria del Carretto”.

Detail of the sarcophagus of Ilaria del Carretto

From that time on, difficult and lengthy dealings began between the local Fine Arts Consulting Commission and the Government, in order to bring back to Lucca the missing panel which, in the meantime, had been transferred to the Bargello National Museum. It was only returned in 1887, thanks to the constant efforts of Enrico Ridolfi, who had been appointed Deputy Director of the Royal Galleries of Florence in 1885. This is the subject of another exhibition held in Lucca for the celebration of the Italian Unification.

The walls seen from Bastion San Regolo

These and much more are going on in Lucca until March 17th. Link to one of our holiday accommodations in Lucca.

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Florence: The Cavalcade of the Magi

Santa Maria del Fiore, Florence

It might not be Wagner’s Ride of the Valkyries, but one must admit that the scenario of the domed cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore is similarly breathtaking! To celebrate the Epiphany Florence has brushed up one of its oldest traditions, documented back to 1417, when a secular brotherhood calling themselves the “Saintly Magi”, i Santi Re Magi, would parade the streets in the so-called Cavalcata dei Magi, the Cavalcade of the Magi. In the 15th century the parade consisted of  three different processions which would meet up in front of the Baptistery and proceed together up to the Basilica of San Marco, where, with songs and prayers, they would celebrate the Infant Jesus.

Benozzo Gozzoli’s “Cavalcata dei Magi”

Belonging to the Magi Company were also the members of the Medici Family. Cosimo the Elder commissioned Benozzo Gozzoli a fresco  in 1459, which can today be admired in the Magi Chapel in Palazzo Medici Ricciardi and belongs to a famous cycle of frescoes of the artist, obviously, known as the ‘Journey of the Magi’. This is the most famous testimony of the ‘Cavalcade’ and one can identify members of the Medici Family such as Giuliano and Lorenzo.

Detail of the “Cavalcata dei Magi”

Today the Cavalcade of the Magi, with its three Wise Men and their retinue, leaves Piazza Pitti, crosses over Ponte Vecchio and arrives in Piazza della Signoria where it is joined by the Florentine Flag-wavers. The procession proceeds through Via Calzaiuoli until the Cathedral’s Square, where the Three Kings bestow their gifts to the Infant Jesus in the Living Crèche staged on the courtyard of Santa Maria del Fiore.

Florence, a true treasure house. Link to our holiday apartments in Florence.

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Bagni di Lucca celebrates its Epiphany… with polenta

Bagni di Lucca

The thermal town of Bagni di Lucca was known for its springs since the Etruscan and Roman Ages. It later became the summer residence of Napoleon’s court and with the French occupation reached its maximum splendour. It was during this period that a Casino was built, offering gambling rooms and a large hall where to dance the night away.

Polenta cooked in copper pots

Many events are organized during the year for the numerous tourists who visit town. A traditional one is being held this evening, 5th January, “la Polentata di Befana”. In Italian folklore, the Befana is an old woman who delivers gifts to children on the Eve of Epiphany. If the children are good their socks are filled with sweets and presents, if they are bad they get a nice, big lump of coal, actually a dark rock-hard candy. Bagni di Lucca celebrates this event organizing a huge party with polenta, ground yellow cornmeal cooked in huge copper pots, as the main dish.

Polenta and sausages

At dusk ‘beggars’ go from house to house singing the traditional Befana songs, handed down from generation to generation, and asking for donations. As the evening proceeds music and dancing fill the streets with merrymaking. At the stroke of midnight, polenta is offered to all present. Served directly from the copper pots the polenta can be eaten with sausages, with ‘biroldo’, the typical blood sausage of this Garfagnana region, with pecorino or ricotta cheese and must absolutely be matched to excellent red wine.

Biroldo

Bagni di Lucca offers much to its visitors, as well as its surroundings with the medieval villages dotting the mountain, the famous medieval Ponte della Maddalena, aka The Devil’s Bridge, with its lofty central arch, down in the Serchio valley and the beautiful canyon of the Orrido di Botri.

Orrido di Botri

Link to one of our holiday accommodations near Bagni di Lucca.

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The Silk Road… stopping at Lucca

The beautiful walled town of Lucca is hosting another interesting exhibition until the 31st January at the Guinigi Palace.  “The Silk Road” comprises over 130 masterpieces of textile art to relate the millennial history of the relationship between East and West. A shiny silk thread, long 8 thousand km, that unites the cities of Lucca to Hangzhou in China, the historical capital of silk production and distribution. The Silk Road is an exhibition full of colour, charm and magic which makes the visitor understand the real size and importance of a common culture.

Coming from the National Chinese Silk Museum of Hangzhou and from public and private collections in Lucca, these works of art cover more than a thousand years of history, from the Tang to the Ming Dynasty, together with bibliographic and documentary support including many precious books and documents. The exhibition is divided into three sections. The first is dedicated to Lucca and its role as European capital of silk in the Middle Ages. The second is dedicated to the production of silk and its trade through China, central Asia and the Mediterranean. The third is dedicated to the manufacturing techniques typical of the Byzantine and Islamic world and their spread in Europe.

Among the most significant exhibits there are a number of clothes and textiles (shaman, brocades, gauzes, embroidery) dating from the Liao, Jin, Song and Ming periods, a group of terracotta figures representing Bactrian camels and Central Asian merchants of the Tang period, a series of paintings on silk dating from the Song and Yuan dynasty and representing Genghis Khan and the techniques of production and processing of silk, two large paintings on silk scrolls of the Ming period representing the emperor travelling, and a series of official texts describing the techniques of producing and processing silk. Also many sumptuous festive clothing for dignitaries, and a magnificent embroidered satin panel, all of the Qing Period. With regard to Central Asia, particularly outstanding are 12 ceremony garments produced in Uzbekistan in the nineteenth century with the ikat technique, characterized by extraordinary colours and designs.

Link to holiday accommodation in Lucca, right within the walls.

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Sansepolcro and its Millennium Celebrations

Throughout 2012 and early 2013, Sansepolcro, near Arezzo, is celebrating the Millennium of its city and cathedral. Over 50 events in all kind of fields – culture, art, economics and science – to underline the international dimension of Sansepolcro, city of Justice and Peace which it intends to promote while welcoming guests. According to tradition the town was founded around 1000 AD by two pilgrims during their homecoming from the Holy Land. Arcanus and Aegidius, the pilgrims, were bearing a stone from the Holy Sepulchre – San Sepolcro – and here founded an oratory dedicated to Saint Leonardo, where today is the Cathedral.

Situated on the upper reaches of the Tiber river, San Sepolcro was the birthplace of painters Piero della Francesca, Raffaellino del Colle and Angiolo Tricca. The town museum today hosts Piero della Francesca’s ‘Resurrection’, described by Aldous Huxley as “the greatest painting in the world”, as well as many other treasures by other painters.

The highlights of this year’s events will be the visit of Pope Benedict XVI, probably in October, and of the Italian President Giorgio Napolitano. Furthermore, personalities from the world of culture, politics and economy will be awarded with the “City of Sansepolcro” prize for their commitment to support the promotion of culture and the pursuit of civic and economic development of the territory.

A good opportunity to come and visit this Eastern area of Tuscany gathered around Arezzo where we offer typical Tuscan accommodations.

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