The Arezzo Wine Trail – Strada del Vino Terre di Arezzo

Pubblicato il 26 Ottobre 2013 da Genni

The Arezzo Wine Trial is a trip across the entire province and also its history. Starting on the northern banks of the River Arno in the Casentino, along a winding valley shadowed by the age-old forests of the National Park, it proceeds along the watercourse into the Valdarno, with its incredible variety of landscapes, next to the medieval town of Arezzo and then south to the breathtaking sights of the Valdichiana.

The countryside is rich with vineyards, olive groves, tobacco cultivations, chestnut woods and forests. Ancient abbeys, fortified villages and medieval castles dot the landscape. It is a travel through time which goes back to the Etruscans passing through Renaissance masterpieces.

The small, walled city of Castiglion Fiorentino, for instance, was inhabited since prehistory and is well known for its Etruscan archaeological site. Dominating the ancient 13th century walls is the Cassero, the town’s fortress, completed in 1367. In the 15th century the fortress was used by nuns as a convent. During the centuries much of it was destroyed and by the 19th century the remaining structure was used as a prison. The Public Art Gallery occupies the former church of Sant’Angelo, built between 1229 and 1239 in Romanesque style on the site of an Etruscan temple. Before being used as a museum, the church served as a hospital, wine cellar and workshop. Today it treasures precious 13th century goldsmith’s art and paintings by Margarito, Taddeo Gaddi, Bartolomeo Della Gatta and Giorgio Vasari. The nine arch loggia in Piazza del Comune was a work of Vasari in 1513 and enjoys a breathtaking view over the valley.

Southwest one encounters the main cultural and artistic centre of the Valdichiana, after Arezzo, Cortona. Originally an Umbrian city, it was conquered and enlarged by the Etruscans who left many vestiges mostly preserved in the Etruscan Academy Museum, founded in 1727. Cortona eventually became a Roman colony and later, in the 13th century, a Ghibellinian city state with its own currency. Prevalently medieval in architecture, Cortona is renowned for its steep narrow streets climbing the hillside and its spectacular view of the whole Valdichiana. Scattered on the hill slopes are Etruscan chamber-tombs, whilst on arriving in town one’s eye is immediately captured by the vast dome of Vasari’s Renaissance church, Santa Maria Nuova, standing out against the skyline.

Further west lies the remarkably conserved medieval walled elliptical village of Lucignano. Strategically located between Arezzo and Siena, it was disputed between these two cities, as well as with Florence and Perugia, between 1200 and 1500. Inside the walls the ancient village is perfectly conserved with 12th century buildings, such as the Palazzo Pretorio. The town Museum preserves works from the 13th to 18th century among which the well-known “Tree of Life”, L’albero della vita, an elaborate reliquary made for the Franciscan church: a gilded and bejewelled tree surmounted by a crucified figure.

However, the heart and capital of this stunning Tuscan province is the town of Arezzo. As evidenced by the architecture of the city, Arezzo boasts ancient origins in which it was one of the twelve most important Etruscan towns, as well as a strategic Roman city. The highest part of town retains a remarkable medieval aspect, dominated by the Cathedral and the Medici fortress. In the centre of the city Piazza Grande reveals a rich collection of architectural styles: next to the medieval towers stands the imposing Mannerist Vasari Loggia, in front the Gothic Palace of the Lay Fraternity is nearly next to the Romanesque church of Santa Maria della Pieve. This square is currently the site of the annual medieval tournament called the Saracen Joust, which takes place every year on the last but one Saturday of June and on the first Sunday of September.

A trip along the Arezzo Wine Trail offers the opportunity to try both the various wines produced here and the local gastronomy. Together with an excellent extra virgin olive oil, this land produces a vast range of legumes (beans and chickpeas). The sheep and goats grazing on the hill slopes are raised for their milk used for various kinds of cheese. The chicken of the Valdarno is as famous in Italy as the Chianina beef bred in the same name valley, while pigs are used for the many types of cold meats such as capocollo, finocchiona, prosciutto DOP Toscano and salame toscano. To end on a sweet note, the numerous beehives seen in the fields or among the trees in woods produce a vast variety of honey. Truly a region of scents and flavour.


Pubblicato in Arezzo, Casentino, Cortona, Discovery, Tuscan food and wine, Tuscan lifestyle, Tuscan towns and cities, Tuscany, Valdarno, Valdichiana | Contrassegnato , , , , , , , , | Lascia un commento

The Chianti Classico Wine and Olive Oil Trail – Strada del Vino e dell’Olio Chianti Classico

Pubblicato il 19 Ottobre 2013 da Genni

The Chianti Classico territory extends itself from Florence to Siena, the two towns that contested it for many centuries. The area entirely englobes the communes of Greve, Radda, Castellina and Gaiole in Chianti as well as a part of Castelnuovo Berardenga, Barberino Val d’Elsa, San Casciano Val di Pesa, Poggibonsi and Tavarnelle. It is a land of hills, covered in forests and dotted with tiny hamlets, castles, ancient churches and farmhouses. Its vineyards, olive groves and dirt roads convey the rural characteristics of the territory.

The Chianti Classico Wine and Olive Oil Trail crosses the whole territory, starting from Greve in Chianti and its triangular main piazza, fronted by numerous medieval buildings and where a market has been running more or less continuously for centuries. It runs straight down towards Siena through Panzano with its 6th century Pieve di San Leolino and then Castellina.

Much of the wine and olive oil trail is, however, made up by the network of roads that connects the bigger towns to the hamlets and castles, like the one going towards Radda in Chianti, already the capital of the so-called Lega del Chianti, unto the Castel of Brolio where in 1874 Baron Bettino Ricasoli created the definite Chianti recipe (70% Sangiovese, 15% Canaiolo and 15% Malvasia Bianca).

Along the wine and olive oil trail there are many guided tours of the wineries as well as places where one can taste wine and olive oil. The principle product obviously is the Chianti Classico DOCG wine which boasts the black rooster seal, Gallo Nero. Another grape product is the Chianti Classico DOC Vinsanto made from the dried white grapes of Malvasia and Trebbiano. The Chianti Classico DOP extra virgin olive oil is made by cold extraction from the Frantoio, Moraiolo, Correggiolo and Leccino varieties. The Chianti Classico area also possesses solid gastronomic traditions with its roots tightly clinging to peasant cooking. Local restaurants have a wide selection of dishes with cheese, cold meat, chianina beef, the cinta senese pork and wild boar. Recently the cultivation of saffron has been resumed.


Pubblicato in Culture and accommodations in Tuscany, Tuscan food and wine, Tuscan lifestyle, Villas in Tuscany | Contrassegnato , , , , , , , | Lascia un commento

Chianti Wine Trail of Montespertoli – Strada del Vino Chianti Montespertoli

Pubblicato il 13 Ottobre 2013 da Genni

Renowned all over the world for its production of excellent wine, the Chianti region covers a vast area of Tuscany and includes several overlapping subregions, further divided into sub-zones. At just 25 km from Florence and part of the Colli Fiorentini sub-zone until 1997, the Montespertoli sub-zone has since become its own tiny enclave. Surrounded by gently rolling hills covered with vineyards and olive groves, this is one of the world’s most famous landscapes.

Thanks to its mild climate and fine position, the territory of Montespertoli has an excellent wine cultivation, and of its 2200 hectares 1400 are cultivated with Chianti DOCG classified vines. The biggest development in vine-growing here was with the Medici family. Apparently, starting from Cosimo de’ Medici in the 14th century until unlucky Gian Gastone in the 18th, the Medicis favourite wine was the Chianti produced in this area. Today the area has an outstanding selection of various Chianti DOCGs, as well as its own Vin Santo.

Since Etruscan times Montespertoli has played an important role on account of its road network which allowed Florence to trade with Volterra and Siena along the Via Volterrana. The same road crossed the territory of Montespertoli from North to South and joined the Via Francigena at Certaldo and for this reason along it we can find many early Middle Ages’ settlements. In 1393 the borough of Montespertoli was acquired by the Machiavelli family.

Today the town is a favourite among Florentines who prefer to live here, far from the city pollution, yet near to work. Main sights are a selection of churches ranging from the 9th century to the 12th, the 10th-century Castle of Montegufoni, once residence of the Sitwell family, the 12th-century Castle of Poppiano and the Castle of Sonnino, former residence of the statesman Sidney Sonnino and today a winery, the fate of many historic villas in the area.

Montespertoli has more to offer visitors than excellent wine and olive oil. One can explore this beautiful region on horseback, mountain bike or simply trekking. However, for those following the wine trail the Wine Museum of Montespertoli is also a leap back into rural traditions.


Pubblicato in Accommodations in Tuscany, Chianti, Tuscan food and wine, Tuscan lifestyle | Contrassegnato , , , , , | Lascia un commento

The Wine Trail of the Pisan Hills – Strada del Vino Colline Pisane

Pubblicato il 7 Ottobre 2013 da Genni

The Pisan Hills (not to be confused with Mount Pisano) is a historical and geographical region nestling southeast of Pisa and north of Volterra. Crossed by the rivers Arno, Era and Zannone, this rather large area in ancient times was also crossed by the Roman roads Via Aurelia, Via Cassia and Via Clodia. Both the waterways and the highways were fundamental for the development of this part of Tuscany as well as essential for vine-growing.

The wine trail crosses many towns and obviously vineyards on its quest for a network of Sangiovese-based Chianti wine on these Pisan Hills. Capital of the region between 1406 and 1848 was the beautiful hilltop town of Lari. This tiny Etruscan town since the age of Lombards was fought for by Lucca, Pisa and Florence. Today Lari preserves the imposing structures of its Renaissance fortress, once the residence of the Vicars of Florence. Here visitors can admire Etruscan, Roman and Renaissance findings, Medieval and Renaissance frescoes, the glazed terracottas of the Della Robbia family as well as the prisons, the torture room and the dungeons known as ‘hell’.


At the extremities of the wine road there is Chianni, in the southwest, surrounded by vast chestnut woods, vineyards and olive groves and San Miniato, in the north-eastern corner. Strategically positioned on a hill dominating the river Arno, San Miniato is also on the medieval via Francigena, the main route connecting northern Europe to Rome, as well as at the intersection between the roads Florence-Pisa and Lucca-Siena. For this reason over the centuries the town was constantly exposed to a flow of people, both friendly and hostile, be they travellers, traders or armies. San Miniato has many sights to offer along with the Cathedral, the Tower of Frederick and the castle. Today the town is above all renowned for its production of leather goods and its precious white truffles.

North of Chianni is the spa village of Casciana Terme. Known since the year 800 for its thermal water, and going by the name of Castrum ad Aquis, in 1100 the Countess Matilda of Canossa, understanding the beneficial virtues of the waters, decided to restore the baths. Neighbouring Terricciola, instead, is an ancient village of Etruscan origin, as documented by the discovery of settlements in the surroundings with Hellenistic necropolis and underground tomb rooms. Originally studded with towers, today Terricciola, like most Tuscan towns, has its fair share of lovely churches and historic villas. Every year on the second and third weekend of September, the town holds the Traditional Grape and Wine Festival, the oldest of the whole province. Obviously the wines are those of the Pisan Hills Wine Trail made with the typical grape varieties of the area: Sangiovese, Trebbiano, Malvasia, Ciliegiolo and Merlot.

Along the wine route is Peccioli. Built around the ruins of a medieval castle, the village is surrounded by vineyards, olive groves and green gently rolling hills. In the heart of Peccioli are located the 11th century church dedicated to St. Verano, the medieval Praetorian Palace with the typical coats of arms on the façade and the red brick church of the Madonna del Carmine. The town has been awarded the Orange Flag, which is the trademark of the Italian Touring Club (TCI) association, for those villages in Italy that stand out for the high quality of their hospitality as well as the excellence in touristic services. Just outside lies the tiny hamlet of Fabbrica di Peccioli, built as a castle town outpost for Pisa. Here one can admire the beautiful 10th century Romanesque church of Santa Maria Assunta.

Many more are the towns that dot the Wine Trail of the Pisan Hills, surrounded by their medieval hamlets and castles. Nature trails cross vineyards, olive groves and old-age woods. The variety of the landscape, the selection of historical villages, the advantageous central position, as well as the many activities this area offers make this region one of tourists’ favourites.


Pubblicato in Accommodations in Tuscany, Culture and accommodations in Tuscany, Tuscan food and wine, Tuscan lifestyle, Villas in Tuscany | Contrassegnato , , , | Lascia un commento

Carmignano Wine and Typical Flavours of Prato Trail – Strada dei Vini di Carmignano e dei sapori tipici pratesi

Pubblicato il 28 Settembre 2013 da Genni

The area of Carmignano, in the province of Prato, 10 miles northwest of Florence, has been producing wine on its low lying hills since Roman times, for this reason it is considered one of the oldest wines in Italy. During the Middle Ages, the quality of the wines produced here were highly renowned, so much so that later in 1716, Cosimo III de’ Medici, Grand Duke of Tuscany, identified the region as one of the superior wine producing areas of Tuscany and granted it special legal protections. The reputation of Carmignano grew so much that Queen Anne of Great Britain requested regular shipments of the wine. In the 18th century the producers started the tradition of blending together Sangiovese with Cabernet Sauvignon, long before the practice became popularized by the “Super Tuscan” of the late 20th century.

The territory of Carmignano was intensely affected by the presence of the Etruscans. Archaeological discoveries have shown that the area, particularly around the hamlet of Artimino, was very important for their expansion north of the Arno in connection with the hills at the foot of the Appennines. Today visiting Carmignano the main attractions are several Etruscan tombs near the village of Comeana, the well-preserved 10th century castle in the upper part of town, the 12th century church of Santi Michele e Francesco and the magnificent Medicean villa at Artimino, aka the Villa of the Hundred Chimneys.

The wine and typical flavour trail covers all the province of Prato and nearby Poggio a Caiano, on the river Ombrone, gives its share of wine and olive oil to the cooperative. Here the revolutionary, for its times, Medici Villa del Poggio, stands, built by Lorenzo de’ Medici in 1485 over the ruins of a fortified house. Here every second week of September is held the ‘Siege at the Villa’ with all the villagers dressed in Medicean clothes. The whole town is closed to traffic and from the fountain along the main wall of the villa flows out red wine.

Prato, the capital of the province as well as the second largest city in Tuscany (third in central Italy after Rome and Florence), lies at the foot of Monte Retaia. The surrounding hills were inhabited since Paleolithic times, and the Etruscans colonized the plain. This is an area rich in archaeological findings, as well as historical buildings and amazing works of art. Built between 1237 and 1247 is the Emperor’s Castle, il Castello dell’Imperatore, a remarkable stronghold with crenellated walls and towers built for the medieval emperor Frederick II, Holy Roman Emperor. Further north one can find picturesque medieval hamlets like Montemurlo, while hills are dotted with castles like the Rocca di Cerbaia at Cantagallo and that at Vernio.

The flavours of this area, unknown to most tourist circuits, are not just the full body of the wine and the delicate touch of the olive oil. Carmignano is famous also for its production of dried figs, so much so that they are part of the Slow Food movement’s Ark of Taste catalogue. Their history goes back centuries to when the Roman legions used them as stock food. Going back to the Roman period are also Prato’s cantuccini almond biscuits, equally scrumptious. These very dry oblong-shaped biscuits, which Pliny the Elder boasted would be edible for centuries, are generally offered with a glass of excellent vin santo. Today modern versions sometimes exchange the classic almonds with pine nuts, hazelnuts or even pistachio and chocolate. Another typical product of Prato is the so-called mortadella di Prato. In reality this is not a real Bologna sausage but a cold meat with a lot of seasoning and alchermes liqueur, whose scarlet colour bestows the rose-coloured mortadella look.

Carmignano and Prato’s reputation is hand in glove with its ancient history and the flavours of their products conceal the important stages of this development.


Pubblicato in Castles in Tuscany, Culture and accommodations in Tuscany, Tuscan food and wine, Tuscan lifestyle | Contrassegnato , , , , , , | 1 commento