Enrique Vargas’ Fermentation at the Funaro, Pistoia

Again  in September the usual meeting in Pistoia at the Funaro. The theatre-workshop, founded in 2009,  is going to host up to the end of the month the last work of Enrique Vargas, the Columbian director of the Teatro de los Sentidos.( Read  on purpose the post “ The chance of a lifetime for lovers of both Tuscany and Enrique Vargas” published on Blog Tuscany Holiday Rent on July 29,  2011) . The audience’s  sensorial involvement  again distinguish Enrique Vargas’  last performance ”Fermentation”. The spectator turns into a traveler because of his  passing through planned steps of knowledge, which  gradually mix  the external  world’s perception with self-awareness.

“Long, long time ago, only a few men knew the secret and the risk of awakening the dormant soul which lies in wine..” that is its presentation at the Festival International de Teatre de Tarragona in June, 2012.

While apparently at rest  in the depths of the earth, the grape juice drives back the spectator through its past, from its blossoming leaves up  to the bunches of  grapes and  finally to the precious substance,  successful result from a collective rite. The whole senses of the spectator are effected, the body as a whole is involved. The soul itself is not forgotten, a final  music celebrates the birth of wine.

A poetic staging of a  historical procedure dating back to myth, religion and history, set in Pistoia, Tuscany, one of the most prestigious of Italy’s wine region where its Wine Roads  stand as historical memories of a  countryside geographically  molded by the vineyards and their farmers work over the centuries.

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Francis Bacon at the Strozzina, Florence

Francis Bacon at the Strozzina, Florence, with an international exhibition

Francis Bacon e la condizione esistenziale nell’arte contemporanea

( human condition in contemporary art) on October, 5 up to January, 27, 2013.

Hard stuff for untrained palates, the issue is, though, dramatically human.

Few notes of Bacon’s life get here a necessary clue about his paintings.

Born in 1909, Bacon dies in 1992. As a child, the tense relationship with his father, too fond of military discipline, his early recognized homosexuality and the family constant moving between England and IRA ravaged Ireland, contributes to shape him into an outsider. After an independent London approach floundering among odd jobs at 16, Bacon experiences the Weimar Berlin of the twenties, the Bauhaus design and the burgeoning cinema of Fritz Lang and Sergej Eisenstein. Their respective masterworks Metropolis and the Battleship Potemkin will leave deep marks in his artistic background.

Next destination, Paris, where he is highly impressed by the cubist paintings of Picasso and by his lack of any formal artistic training. Under the influence of Picasso’s production of the twenties, Bacon paints in 1944” Three studies for figures at the base of a crucifixion” a triptych able to bewilder the onlookers because of the limbless biomorphic creatures, hardly resembling human forms.

Elongated necks, toothed mouths open as if screaming, protruding ears from a jaw appear as anguished details of a thwart human condition, the very core of Bacon’s creative process, difficult to put up with. The painter has always been moved and charmed by pictures featuring slaughterhouses. Crucifixion, beyond its alleged religious meaning, is –in his own words- just an act of man’s behaviour, a way of behaviour to another. He ordinarily uses to collect photographs of animals, taken just before being killed when they seem to be aware of their oncoming martyrdom and their effortless attempt to escape.

Bacon later approaches art more figuratively in ”Painting of 1946”, an immediately recognized masterwork, bought in 1948 by Alfred J. Barr for the New York Museum of Contemporary Art. Painted in the World War II aftermath, it features an impressively brutal, anonymous public figure in a formal suit, reminding of the uniforms of British politicians of the period. His face and grimace have lost any sense of human, enhanced by the cruciformed cow carcass behind the character. A homage to great masters like Rembrandt or Soutine and to his childhood’s fascination for butcher’ s shops as well. About the genesis of the work Bacon, quite interestingly, in an interview with David Sylvester says: ”it came to me as an accident I was attempting to make a bird alighting on a field .. the line that I had drawn suggested something totally different. I had no intention to do this picture. It was like one continuous accident mounting on top of another”.

In spite of his declared standing aloof from religious items, in 1953 he painted ”A study after Velasquez’s portrait of Pope Innocent X”, featuring a screaming Pope on a golden throne with blurring vertical lines, further focusing his obsessive interest for both screaming or crying mouths.

David Sylvester in his “Interviews with Francis Bacon” about this peculiar issue tells to have noticed in the artist’s studio” a book bought in Paris on diseases of the mouth, ‘a second-hand book which had beautiful hand-coloured plates of the mouth open and of the examination of the inside of the mouth of the nanny with blood running down her face in the Odessa Steps sequence of Eisenstein’s The Battleship Potemkin

To a deeper comprehension of his paintings Bacon adds” scream is a horrific image; in fact, I wanted to paint the scream more than the horror. I think if I had really thought about what causes somebody to scream it would have made the scream that I tried to paint more successful…. I’ve always been very moved by movements of the mouth and the shape of the mouth and teeth… I’ve always hoped in a sense to be able to paint the mouth like Monet painted a sunset.” Clearly he states ‘Painting is the pattern of one’s own nervous system being projected on the canvas’. The idea is not new, it is in a way linked to the automatism of Surrealism which is actually part of his artistic background. Bacon has courageously faced life in its physical terms of monstrously twisted bodies, marked by corruption and death. His dehumanized creatures in their helplessness and hopelessness become expressions of the uneasiness and tragedy of an age heavily marked by war, massacres and starvation.

Franziska Nori, director of Strozzina and curator of the exhibition together with Barbara Dowson of Dublin City Gallery the Hugh Lane has focused the show on the simultaneous presence of the “maudit painter’s works with the ones of five international artists

Nathalie Djurberg, Adrian Ghenie, Arcangelo Sassolino, Chiharu Shiota, Annegret Soltau who have shared with him the anguished uneasiness both individual and collective of the past century and the beginning of the present one.

An exhibition not to be missed.

If you are going to spend few days in Florence profit from the accommodations offered in the area by Tuscany Holiday Rent.

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Jazz at the Grotta of Buontalenti, Boboli Gardens

A late summer night’s  music dream.

In September, Pitti Jazz, a three days’ event, is  taking place at the Grotta of Buontalenti, Boboli Gardens . It deserves our  attention for  joining together art and music. The audience  are first  invited to visit the strikingly light grotto  in the park behind Palazzo Pitti and then to attend  a jazz concert en plein air,  under the stars.  As to the Grotta of Buontalenti   have a look at the post called The”wunderkammer” of the Renaissance architect, Bernardo Buontalenti of May, 28th, 2012, on Tuscany Holiday Rent Blog.

Three dates not to be missed. On the first concert on September the 5th 2012,  Fabrizio Bosso is performing with his trumpet, accompanied by Rosario Buonaccorso on bass. The event continues on September the 10th, with the trio, made up  of  Rita Marcotulli, the pianist, Luciano Biondini, the accordion player and the Argentinian multi-instrumentalist  Xavier Girotto.

On September13th, the last concert with Mirko Guerrini, a Florentine saxophonist  much appreciated abroad especially  in  Canada and Australia. His performance is going to be enriched by a visual artist Massimo Ottoni ‘s sand works which add an extra magic to Guerrini‘s  amazing sound .

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The Medicean Villa La Petraia

An interesting suggestion.

After visiting the wonders of Florence as an ordinary tourist,  abandon the trodden tracks. Move to a hidden  treasure in its immediate surroundings ( the area between Sesto Fiorentino and Careggi)  the Villa la Petraia, the sleeping beauty –as it was labeled lately- now waiting for the kiss of Unesco inspectors. They will probably number it among  Unesco heritage sites in a short while. In the meantime, before countless crowds invade this open-air museum,  profit from this amazing corner in the outskirts of Florence which deserves to be discovered in solitude. While relaxingly sitting on a bench to waste or better gain time, the unjustly forgotten slow time, or  reading  a book you will lift from time to time your eyes to get lost in  the harmony and charm of the place and capture the spell of the garden.

Edith Wharton,  the famous American novelist,  in her book “ Italian Villas and their Gardens” speaks of the enchantment  of “the traveler returning from Italy with his eyes and imagination full of the ineffable Italian garden-magic… Is it because the sky is bluer and the vegetation more luxuriant?

To its  answer she adds “ one must go deeper,  the garden must be studied in relation to the house and both in relation to the landscape”. That is in fact the  everlasting  beauty of Tuscany.

At the moment the Medicean Villa La Petraia, in the outskirts of Florence is a real treasure trunk, disclosing inside, up to the end of September 201, an exhibition of the Flemish 16th century painter Giusto Utens. The mysterious artist, born in Brussels and died in Carrara (the Tuscan marble quarry  area), was commissioned  17 lunettes,  featuring Medici properties, in a special mixture of landscape and architectural elements, according to the bird’s eye view technique, able to  embrace large Tuscan  territories in a single glance. The  amazingly iconographic collection  was meant to decorate another Medicean  mansion “La Ferdinanda also called “ the villa of the one hundred chimneys” commissioned by Grand Duke Ferdinando, son to Cosimo the first de’ Medici, to Bernardo Buontalenti.

The Villa La Petraia, originally property of the Brunelleschi family, was bought   in the 14th century by the Strozzi, rich Florentine bankers.  It passed later to the Medici in the 16th century.  Cosimo the first  bequeathed the Villa to the cardinal and heir Ferdinando. Stepped terraced gardens, still visible today, were set out in the front of the “palagio”, as a spectacular frame.  They are the Prato della Figurina designed by Tribolo ,characterized by a fountain adorned  by Giambologna’s Venus on top, popularly called Figurina and the Prato dei Castagni, hardly evocative because of  the  missing chestnut trees after which it took its name.

The middle area is occupied by the Vivaio,  a pool enriched by two flights of steps.

The property includes a romantic park, stretching up the nearby hill. History in its moving on has marked the landscape too. The park, wild and uncontrolled according to the Romantic issues , has replaced the geometrical Renaissance shape .The Lorraine House with Pietro Leopoldo II commissioned the Bohemian architect Joseph Frietsch to join Petraia and another Medicean property the Castello . The trees range from holm-oaks and cypresses to red  and downy oaks, thus well featuring the Romantic vital force of uncontrolled nature so  far from the geometrical shapes of  Renaissance.

The last  details, in a such historical walk , the marks left  in the partial renovation of the palagio by  the Savoy monarchy  as the residence of Vittorio Emanuele II when Florence  became the capital of Italy in 1865.

If you travel to Florence and surroundings , it’s worth visiting this magnificent example of Renaissance architecture. Choose for that an accommodation in the area

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In Anghiari, Arezzo, “Sarà stufa“ a theatre piece by Tovaglia a Quadri

It is summertime and amateur theatres such as the Teatro Povero of Monticchiello or the Bruscello of Montepulciano spring up all around Tuscany. In Anghiari, a small village not far from Arezzo, one of the nicest Tuscan popular theatre company called “Tovaglia a Quadri” (checked tablecloth) is staging for nine days up to August 19th 2012, a piece called ”Sarà stufa” (it is going to be in need of a stove).

The adventure of the company started 17 years ago and since then it has always  kept faithful to its  popular and convivial features of a symbolic though realistic dinner table-stage.

The Poggiolino, the  main square of the town, is the customary site of the performances which focus around a  long dinner table, typical of the Tuscan countryside tavern. Among medieval atmospheres and white-red checked tablecloths past, heritage and intertwined contemporary issues shape up into amazing performances. The audience, sitting at the table on a four- course dinner of local specialities is silently involved in sharing the physical space generally allotted to actors. Audience and actors are spatially joined  in  stories dealing with memories that, though local, are plugged into a wider historical macrocosm.

The performance “Sarà stufa”, directed by Andrea Merendelli and Paolo Pennacchini has a quite simple plot. A tinker is going to repair an old stove which has been stored in a basement for fifty years. Core of an after war background family, it stands as symbol of family reunions in the cold winter days. To it plenty types of hands  approached in search of warmth, food and cherished memories. Hands worn out by toil,  hands corrupted by gambling or stingy ones forced by poverty to hold on tightly to the few left coins in the pocket. The stove has, in a way, become the silent witness of silent  stories told by hands looking for shelter under its precious  heat. So blessed in misery the stove was unjustly forgotten in wealthy periods.

But, now, it is not going to be scrapped, its role is  starting to be again revalued because of the contemporary crisis. The difficult economic situation, the old- new enemy is knocking at the door, making of the stove  a totem against uncertainty and  future plans. How does the small community react against this crisis? Passive acceptance of the events or reaction against new invaders able to subdue and control? The inhabitants of Anghiari are accustomed to oppose resistance. It belongs to their historical heritage, they know this  well-trodden path. An open debate starts, followed by a revolt lead by the hostess. The  self- sufficient community is going to rely just on its hands able to produce. The  term consumption is being questioned  and the issue debated as in wartime.

The cherished memories of a past world, made up  of charcoal pits  and coal cellars are coming to surface as well as the iron mines of the ancient forefathers the Etruscans, swept away by the industrial society.

The future is a Chimera.

The reference to the classical myth, as a monster defeated by a brave warrior is evident and under the surface the Chimera, the Etruscan masterpiece found out in the outskirts of Arezzo in the 16th century,  restored by Cellini is still present as a steady memento of the glorious past.

If you are thinking of an escapade, profit from the accommodations on site offered by Tuscany Holiday Rent.

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