Cathedral of Siena: floor uncovered

The magnificent Romanesque-Gothic Cathedral of Siena houses the heart of the art, history and tradition of this wonderful town. The entire complex contains some of the most important monuments of the European artistic panorama. The hub of the  complex is without doubt the Cathedral, with its more than one million visitors every year, but not to be forgotten are also the Crypt, the Baptistery and the Opera Museum.

Of the numerous masterpieces enclosed in the Cathedral of Siena, one of the most exceptional is certainly its floor. The undertaking of this inlaid marble mosaic work of art went on from the 14th to the 16th centuries and saw the contribution of about 40 artists, all important artists of Siena except for the Umbrian painter Bernardino di Betto, better known as Pinturicchio. Described by Giorgio Vasari as “the most beautiful … largest and most magnificent … that ever was made”, the floor consists of 56 panels in different sizes. Generally to preserve these treasures the floor is covered and only a few are on display. This year the whole floor will be uncovered from the 18th August to the 24th October.

Most of the panels have a rectangular shape, but the later ones, to be found in the transept, are hexagons or rhombuses. They represent the sibyls, scenes from the Old Testament, allegories and virtues. The earliest scenes are made by graffito technique, where scratched lines and tiny drilled holes on the white marble are filled with black stucco. This usually simple technique here reaches a surprising degree of perfection. Later was adopted the marble intarsia, when coloured marble is employed in much the same manner as wood inlaying. The effect of the black, white, green, blue and red marble results in a vigorous contrast of light and dark.

Hermes Trismegistus

At the entrance of the nave an inscription invites the visitor to assume a behaviour in keeping with the surroundings: CASTISSIMUM VIRGINIS TEMPLUM CASTE MEMENTO INGREDI – Remember to chastely enter the very chaste temple of the Virgin. Following is the inlaid panel depicting Hermes Trismegistus (1488), the founder of human wisdom. Portrayed in the aisles are the 10 Sibyls (1482-83), five for each aisle, named after their geographic location: the Persian, Hellespontine (by Neroccio di Bartolomeo de’ Landi), Erythraean (by Antonio Federighi), Phrygian, Samian (by Matteo di Giovanni), and Delphic Sibyls for the Eastern and Greek world; the Libyan Sibyl for Africa (by Guidoccio Cozzarelli); and then those of the West (with reference to Italy), the Cumaean or Cimmerian Sibyl, the Cumaean Sibyl (of Virgil) and the Tiburtine Sibyl.

The She-Wolf of Siena

Beyond the Hermes panel in the nave one encounters the She-Wolf nursing the twin brothers, within a circle connected to other 8 smaller ones representing the emblems of cities in Central Italy. Already in the Middle Ages, the She-wolf became the symbol of the city of Siena, tied to the mythological tale of the city’s founding by Aschius and Senius, sons of Remus. Note the fig tree behind the animal where, according to tradition, the shepherd Faustulus found Romulus and Remus after they had been abandoned along the banks of the Tiber River. This area of the floor is the only one to have been done in mosaic instead of marble intarsia and is an 1865 reconstruction of the original, probably dated 1373, of which fragments can be seen in the Opera Museum.

The Story of Fortune by Pinturicchio

The fourth panel in the nave was designed by Pinturicchio in 1504. It represents the story of Fortune, or Hill of Virtue. A nude girl holds in her right hand a horn of plenty, while in her left hand she holds up a sail as though it were an insignia. After a turbulent journey, Fortune has succeeded in safely putting several Sages on a rocky island, visible from shore to shore. The Sages climb up a footpath over stony ground and through wild vegetation, their way fraught with dangers, including serpents and other reptiles. On top of the mountain sits a female figure: Wisdom or Virtue. With her left hand, the woman offers a book to Crates of Thebes who strips himself of all factitious goods, while with her right hand she offers a palm to Socrates. The message of the allegory on the floor is that the road to Wisdom is a difficult one but after overcoming harsh trials, one attains serenity and peace.

Slaughter of the Innocents by Matteo di Giovanni

While the nave and two aisles recount themes from classical and pagan antiquity, the transept and choir narrate the history of the Jews, the episodes of Salvation fulfilled and realised by the figure of Christ, constantly evoked and never represented in the floor depictions, but present on the altar that the artistic and spiritual itinerary converges towards. The subjects are taken from the Old Testament with the exception of The Slaughter of the Innocents by Matteo di Giovanni. The horrible scene that unfolds before the viewer’s eyes comes from the Gospel of Saint Matthew.

The Sacrifice of Isaac by Domenico Beccafumi

The hexagon beneath the dome (Scenes from the Life of Elijah and Ahab), and other panels near the altar (Moses Striking Water from the Rock; Moses on Mount Sinai, and The Sacrifice of Isaac) present works by mannerist painter Domenico Beccafumi, the most renowned Sienese artist of his time, who would perfect the technique of marble intarsia to the point of attaining chiaroscuro effects.

Another good reason to book a holiday in Tuscany and visit Siena in the following months: the uncovering of this magnificent floor is certainly an opportunity not to be missed. Take a look at our selection of holiday accommodations in and around Siena.

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Guided tours by Cooperativa Archeologica in the very heart of Florence

In a few days, on August the 7th 2012,  at 8 pm,  an interesting evening tour is going to be dedicated to the very heart of Florence.

” Le sere del Di’ di Festa. Nati all’ombra di’  Cupolone” (Holiday evenings under the shadow of Florence Dome) is one of the events organized by the Cooperativa  Archeologica , organizing here  itineraries to the historical roots of the city and its surroundings , just after its successful  journey,  on August the 2nd,  in Fiesole, on the tracks of the Etruscans’ and Romans’ remnants.

Archeological perspectives and renaissances suggestions are inevitably going to intertwine. The visitor is suggested to follow the attitude of the one who, rummaging  in an attic, looks for items of the past. Anecdotes and curiosities,  often unknown even to  residents, will be revealed  to him in the walk under the dome, designed by Brunelleschi in 1420 as  the greatest sample of his architectural works and daring engineering skills. The largest and highest dome of his time could be planned without any wooden support, being the upper bricks bonded by a vertical herring bone pattern. Not to be missed its cross-reference, the façade whose many-coloured marble  walls become the friendliest note of Florence, as Henry James, the American writer, noticed in 1873. ” There is – in his own words – an unfailing charm in walking past their acres of geometrical mosaic, you greet them from the deep streets as you greet the side of a mountain when you move in the gorge “.

Who could better than an American, accustomed to his native dramatic landscapes, suggest  the proper attitude in front of a such wonder, thus writing down a new page of our personal experience in front of a such privileged amazement ?

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Cortona Mix Festival 2012

This year the Tuscan Sun Festival has controversially left Cortona for Florence but the small town of the Val di Chiana,  abandoning any  juicy gossips,  has immediately reacted with a vital and determined project the “Cortona Mix Festival”,  result from the joint proposals of its municipality and the publishing house Feltrinelli.  More than a festival, it is an event aiming at erasing the customary secluded isolation of arts, looking rather for their juxtaposition giving way to  new ideas and rich and varied scenarios.

A new approach,  in fact, characterizes the Mix Festival.

Tomorrow,  on the opening day,  Saturday 28th 2012,  in the magical setting of  Piazza Signorelli  Charlie Chaplin’s tender tale of “ Modern Times” will be shown on a giant screen, accompanied by the American conductor Timothy Brock ‘s notes  of Chaplin’s original  soundtrack.  A philologically correct  procedure where  the worldwide famous silent images  of Chaplin’s masterpiece gain  a new vitality and more direct  emotional involvement. This  experimental workshop goes on the  following days and in Cortona you can listen to the No Smoking Orchestra by the Balkan director Emir Kusturica or the mixture of classical and jazz music of Stefano Bollani.

A jazz night on the stage and on the screen through the documentary Body &Soul , homage to  the great piano jazz player Michel Petrucciani.

As to dance Eleonora Abbagnano,   premierè  etoile of the Paris Opera will perform together with the dancers from the best international companies such as The New York, the  Royal Danish  and Hamburg Opera Ballets.

In Cortona  Italian and foreign writers are expected:  Stefano Benni, Erri De Luca, Jonathan Coe, Marcela Serrano. Theatre is not forgotten,  Italian actors and actresses such as Anita Caprioli, Maddalena Crippa, Luca Zingaretti  have been invited.

Plenty of opportunities for the visitors who can choose among the several events  livening  up the streets, squares and theaters of Cortona.  Every evening The Mix Show  offers  concerts,  performances and parties whereas the kaleidoscopic  Cocktail MIX is going to focus on multidisciplinary issues ranging  from Fellini’s films to football and from contemporary philosophy  up to the movingly fascinating tribute to the Italian writer Antonio Tabucchi .

The natural backdrop of all that are  the streets, squares and unique views of this  small Tuscan  town plunged in a glorified landscape rich in artistic and  gastronomic traditions.

Guided tours  to the best wine  cellars of the Cortona could not be missing in this festival which is experiencing for nine days up to August the5thth 2012  a medley of  entertainment  and culture .

The conclusion of the festival is going to be  Mix Prize,  the award to the best book published in Italy in 2011/2012 season,  by  the joint vote of Feltrinelli booksellers and bookshops  and visitors of the Cortona Festival Mix, beyond any academic statement. A challenge from the Feltrinelli group collecting- in the words of the managing director Dario Giambelli- the widespread desire for participation and interest in live events, despite the consumption slump. ”

If you are in search of a last minute holiday in the area profit from the accommodation offered in the area by Tuscany Holiday Rent

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Vinci: Unicorns, football and knights in Leonardo’s hometown

Best known for its most famous son, the Renaissance giant Leonardo, Vinci is a quiet hill town, whose narrow streets and surrounding vineyards and olive groves are much the same as in Leonardo’s time. The houses cluster around the medieval stone tower known as the Castello dei Conti Guidi in an elongated shape much resembling that of the hull of a ship. In the following days these streets will undergo a massive change thanks to a series of countless events, unfortunately too many to mention.

Saturday 28th and Sunday 29th July the town will be packed with ‘strange’ characters participating at the Unicorn Festival, a medieval fantasy role-playing event, now at its 8th edition. The historic centre will be transformed into a new imaginary town, split into 5 sections where adults, children, fantasy lovers, cosplayers and comic-strip enthusiasts will quickly find the event they’re interested in. Together with the usual blend of road shows, live role-playing, comics and cosplay, which have made the Unicorn Festival unique in Italy, the organizers have devised more performances so as to involve all ages, as well as aficionados and simple onlookers. Reconfirmed are the Challenge of Magic Arts, the Best Fantasy Creature Contest and “Fear Alley”. Even for those not interested in dressing up, this is certainly a good chance to see ones heroes ‘live’ and catch a snapshot.

During the weekend will also be held Vinci Comics with the exhibition “The War of the Worlds and beyond… ‘future’ projects!” with science fiction Italian comic book “Nathan Never”.  Appetites will be whet at the Obelix’ Haunt, the Gladiator’s Inn and at the Prancing Unicorn, where visitors will eat Tuscan delicatessens surrounded by elves, fairies, dames, knights and much more!

Sunday 29th July will also be the day of the historical challenge of the Tenzon di Palla, the Ball Combat, which will see the Yellow Winged Griffins of Upper Vinci ‘duel’ against the Red Rampant Lions of Lower Vinci. A cousin of the Florentine Kick Game, the combat is always played in July when many flock to Vinci to follow this spectacular game between youths proud to preserve local tradition. Will this year the Yellow Winged Griffins succeed in interrupting the Red Rampant Lions’ supremacy of the last few years?

On Monday evening, 30th July, there will be animation and entertainment for the children in one square, whereas in the castle’s square adults will be enthralled by the jazz show “The Roar at the Door Quartet”, or in the Castle’s coffee house can follow the meeting “Write, read, taste – Writing is good for the health”. Much more goes on during the evening as well as on Tuesday, with the Gran Prix bicycle race of Vinci, a tribute to the Blues Brothers and the comic show “An Evening at the Abattoir”.

Last, but certainly not least, Wednesday 1st August winds up all the events with the Flight of Cecco Santi, il Volo di Cecco Santi. Legend says Cecco Santi was captain of the Vinci army and betrayed the town for love of a noblewoman. For this reason he was condemned to be thrown off the tower of the Conti Guidi’s Castle and granted a pardon if he survived the fall. As last wish he asked to drink a glass of good Vinci wine, which might have to do with his miraculous escape, because apparently when he was thrown off the tower he flew to the hill in front of the castle and survived! That year the harvest was plentiful and for this reason every year, as a propitiatory rite, the flight is commemorated. And I thought Guy Fawkes was bloodthirsty! The evening ends with a spectacular firework display and Vinci returns to normality.

A great opportunity to come to town and visit the Leonardo Museum divided between the Castello dei Conti Guidi and the Palazzina Uzielli, including working models of the Genius’ machine designs, constructed according to his drawings. The moment for a break in Chianti with its gently rolling hills, vineyards, cypresses, stunning castles and charming farmhouses. Here are our choices of holiday villas in Chianti. For more info just contact us through www.tuscanyholidayrent.com.

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David LaChapelle in Lucca

At Palazzo Bocella, Lucca Center of Contemporary Art an exhibition of David  LaChapelle up to November  4th 2012.  Fifty three masterworks from his ten celebrated sections: Star System, Deluge (Awakened), Earth Laughs in Flowers, After the Pop, Destruction and Disaster, Excess, Plastic People, Dream evokes Surrealism, Art References and Negative Currency.

An  amazing journey into the  pop and surrealistic world of the  American artist who challenges the customary style of the ordinary photographer. He escapes any image of the globetrotter  who waits for the extraordinary snapshot  to  immortalize.  He is better defined, as some critics suggest, as the seismographer of his time and the sharp observer of the moral failings, weakness and  human contradictions of our present age. The procedure he uses is quite unusual.  He accurately plans  his ideas in a sketch or even in a water colored outline, building up a  sort of  detailed set conveying a final surrealistic theatrical effect.

LaChapelle’s photos are planned thoughts, ideas caught by shots. They are never by chance. His mental scenarios turn into amazingly personal sets. Thence the series The Star System where the stars’  overlapping public and private  images feature the theatrical shot of Elton John with  boiled eggs filling up his eyes in a private and intimate environment at breakfast time. He is here telling a story like a historical painter. The procedure could be pictorial but oil colors and brushes are here being replaced by a camera.

As to La Chapelle’s biography  he started in the 80’s working for New York galleries and then for Andy Warhol as a  photographer of The Interview Magazine. Plenty the celebrities he immortalized: Angelina Jolie, Madonna, the American transsexual Amanda Lepore, Eminem, Uma Thurman, Elizabeth Taylor, David Beckham, Paris Hilton, Jeff Koons, Leonardo DiCaprio, Hillary Clinton, Muhammad Ali, and Britney Spears,  just to name a few. Sometimes his snapshots portray woman  in full or partial nudity intentionally devoid of any shocking or  voyeuristic urges. He means in fact to liberate the representation of the female body from pornography and from any association of nakedness and sin.

One of his favourite and recurrent issues is the blame for  the marketing method, including in it the audience and even the photograph himself as creator of the bait of the sales scheme. For the Louis Vuitton campaign he shot  New York rapper Lil Kim, her whole body was covered with Louis Vuitton logos,  thus producing a sales promoting attraction and the consequent  commodification of the female body. The body was then  changed into a label and into an advertising space, sounding  like subversive and unusual ideas in the marketed product.

LaChapelle’s  limitless talent also branches out to music videos, theatrical events for stars like Christina Aguilera, Jennifer Lopez, Britney Spears.

His successful documentary Krumped about new forms of negro dancings, shot in  Los Angeles suburbs, was acclaimed at Sundance Festival and later chosen by the 2005 Tribeca Film Festival in New York.

His  solo exhibitions are plenty. They take place  worldwide at Palazzo Reale, Milan in 2007, Museo del Antiguo Colegio de San Ildefonso, Mexico City and  the Musee de La Monnaie, Paris in 2009 , the Museum of Contemporary Art in Taipei, Taiwan and the Tel Aviv Museum of Art, Israel,  New York  Lever House in 2011 up to Prague Galerie Rudolfinum started in February 2012.

An internationally artistic and poetic adventure  which is worthwhile experiencing  for the sharp criticism to some contemporary issues such as addiction to fast food or worship of anorectic symbols of beauty. The conveyed references to Pop and Surrealism get imbued with updated meanings, able to communicate  with a wide and different audience, thus focusing the commercial promotion of prestigious brands such as Diesel, Nokia,  Tommy Hilfiger,  L’Oreal,  Lavazza,  H&M,  Burger King where LaChapelle played an overriding role.

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