A Firenze “Galleria degli Arazzi: Epifanie di tessuti preziosi”

In Florence something special, the exhibition “The Gallery of Tapestries. Epiphanies of precious fabrics” started on March the 20th and  going on up to June the 3rd, 2012. It is a good opportunity of admiring the prestigious tapestries of the stored collections of the Uffizi. They had been hanging along the Uffizi Galleries and the Vasari’s Corridor up to 1987, when the princely manufactures, in need of restoration, were rolled in dark storage rooms, away from the public.

Tapestries are  precious works of craftsmanship relentlessly damaged by time, being their surface easily attacked by dust, insects and the law of gravity. Light, in particular, the main enemy of their brilliant colours, has to be checked up. A permanent exhibition hall, technologically arranged, is going, in a shortwhile, to be set up on the ground floor of the Uffizi to tell this peculiar passion of the Medicis. At first they had  these works of art  sent from the Flanders  they had banking business with. Later, in 1545, Cosimo the 1st established a Florentine tapestry manufacture under the guide of Niccolò Karcher and Giovanni Rost respectively from Mantua and Ferrara.

On show in the exhibition six Flemish tapestries from Brussels or Antwerp  of the cycle of Jacob’s life, of the Battles of Hannibal and of the festivities held at the French  Valois court  in the second half of 16th century. These last are probably the most surprising ones for richness and details. Probably owned by Catherine de’ Medici they were presented to her granddaughter Christine of Lorraine on her wedding to Ferdinando de’ Medici, Gran Duke of Tuscany. Catherine de’ Medici believed in the sumptuous court rituals, in the entertainments recorded in the tapestries. As written accounts of historical events they had to fulfill a precise political meaning. They were supposed to cunningly assess the enduring prestige and magnificence of the Valois dynasty after the past glories of Henry the 2nd or Francis the 1st . Thence the tapestries recording the French court festivals at Fontainbleu and Bayonne during Charles IX’s royal voyage around France or at the Tuileries ball for the Polish Embassy when Catherine’s son, Henry, was shortly appointed king of Poland before becoming Henry the 3rd of France. The exhibition includes,  moreover, nine tapestries made in Florence, chosen among the ones of devotional subject, from the so-called Salviati cycle. Let’s remember as well  the magnificent Ecce Homo, The Hunts on the cartoons by Vasari  and Christ’s passion on the drawings of Alessandro Allori.

An exhibition not to be missed.

Pubblicato in Culture in Tuscany | Lascia un commento

The Battle of Anghiari, the lost Leonardo da Vinci

The hectic search of Leonardo’s lost masterwork  “The Battle of Anghiari”  has been  going on for many years.

The site  is the Salone dei Cinquecento in Palazzo Vecchio,  Florence. The story started  in 1563 when  Vasari,  commissioned  to renovate the hall  with a large fresco,  featuring the Battle of Marciano,  might  have preserved the work of  Leonardo,  hiding it under a juxtaposed new wall .  On top of  Vasari’s battle,  12 meters above the ground,  a soldier waves a green flag with the following written  words ” Chi cerca trova” (“He who seeks, finds”).

Could  these obscure words be  hinting   at Leonardo’s fresco ?

An intriguing suggestion.

Leonardo was commissioned  the Battle of Anghiari by the gonfaloniere  Pier Soderini to proudly celebrate the victory of the Florentine troops against Milan in 1440. The work,   dating back to 1503,  was never completed,  Leonardo abandoned the project  because of technical difficulties.
Many preparatory studies of  Leonardo’s work  still exist. The size of the Battle of Anghiari was impressive. Meant to deal with the various moments of the battle, Leonardo focused mostly on the scene representing colliding horses and cavaliers.  Its central section about four cavaliers, fighting for a standard,  is best known through a drawing by Peter Paul Rubens , at  the Louvre, Paris, known as The Battle of the Standard,  based  on an engraving of 1553 by Lorenzo Zacchia.  Rubens succeeded in portraying the detailed dramatic movements,  presumably present in Leonardo’s  original painting.

Maurizio Seracini,  professor at San Diego University, California,   has,  at present, been following his dream for many years,  chasing after  the Renaissance masterwork,  hidden,  according to him,  behind  Vasari’s  fresco. The professor,  a highly technological engineer,  in the survey of the area,  has implemented  non-invasive techniques,  such as a high-frequency, surface-penetrating radar and a thermographic camera.

He found a gap  between the two walls, large enough for the older fresco to be preserved. Through an endoscopic camera probe the team discovered fragments of pigment on the plaster of the inner wall, an  evidence of Leonardo’s  fresco wall,  being their chemical composition similar to black pigment of Mona Lisa and St. John the Baptist in the Louvre, Paris, as from  recently published scientific papers by the French museum.  Recently,  on March the 12th, 2012  Seracini publicly announced the evidences,  however still controversial.

The challenge is still going on.

Pubblicato in Culture in Tuscany | Lascia un commento

A Tuscan chef from Florence to Miami, Florida

The exchange among Florence and the States  involves culture in its  wider meaning.    art,  fashion and food. Competence and creativity and passion are the winning ingredients. These days,  Marco Stabile,  Florentine chef and owner of the restaurant ”L’Ora d’Aria” in via dei Georgofili, has exported his talent to Miami, opening a restaurant  called “Toscana Divino”.  In November 2011  he got a Michelin star presenting himself as one of the most promising Italian chef , privileging experience to theoretical background.  An indirect attack to the TV chef programs, often lacking  the necessary solid  professionalism. Tradition and innovation are  the basic pillars to enhance  the Tuscan cooking  of  Marco Stabile. For his most successful recipes  he goes back to the tastes of the old good times,  to the  ingredients  strongly tied to his Tuscan roots. His dishes are able to dialogue with  the traditional  tastes,  sounding so comfortable and  reassuring.  However the pigeon and the piglet he prepares evolve to new heights through special cooking techniques,  the  pepper flavoured pork melts inside   and contemporarily gets crunchy outside.

Innovation goes on, adding Marco Stabile’s  special  touch and  his research can address to the potato too, sorting out of his hat a humorously  famous dish  “The dream of the potato: go beyond the truffle “. The chef has successfully organized an  unusual competition  between   the humble potato  and the noble truffle  with his creativity as winner.

Pubblicato in Tuscan food and wine | Lascia un commento

Torrita di Siena celebrates Saint Joseph with the Donkey Palio

From Saturday 17th March, until Sunday 25th, the beautiful old village of Torrita di Siena is hosting its renowned Palio dei Somari, the Donkey Palio. Born in 1966, this Palio was created to celebrate the Patron Saint, St. Joseph the Carpenter. In consideration of this fact the population decided to celebrate both hard work and simplicity and for this reason chose donkeys to symbolize them.

Eight contradas are competing for the Palio, as by tradition a painted cloth, in this case depicting St. Joseph. These quarters are Porta a Pago, Porta a Sole, Porta Gavina, Porta Nova, Le Fonti, Stazione, Refenero and Cavone. All with their colours,  coats of arms and walk-ons performing as 15th century villagers: ladies, Princes, knights, standard bearers, flag wavers and drummers.

Starting Saturday with the Medieval Market of Nencia, the celebrations continue with the opening of the photographic exhibition “Weapons, Armed and Knights” and the drawing of the parade order among the contradas. By 5.30 pm matters heat up with the ‘inns’ and food stalls opening and shows and music being played around the village. Sunday is considered a holiday with the flag wavers and drummers’ parade,  whereas during the week it will be possible to taste local dishes in the ‘inns’, admire buskers and medieval companies and maybe catch the flag wavers and drummers practising.

Saturday 24th will again see walk-ons around the village in their lovely medieval clothes, as well as the flag waving and drumming competition among the contradas. Finally Sunday 25th March, following the pageant and flag waving and drumming show, visitors are lead, with the jockeys, to the ‘race course’ (actually the town’s car park) where the Palio will be run at 4 pm.

In the general uproar of the public the real protagonists of this event stand silent, waiting patiently and ignoring the surroundings, possibly munching away on straw. At this point the drawing donkey-contrada has place. Breaths are held in anticipation. Forecasts impossible. Donkeys have a notorious reputation for stubbornness, but actually, they are only cautious. Once a person has earned their confidence they are willing and very dependable. The problem at the Palio is they don’t know their riders and can quite unpredictably run three rounds and suddenly stop a few metres from the finishing line.  However, as the proud owner of five lovely donkeys, I can certainly affirm that these intelligent, friendly and above all playful animals, notwithstanding their whims, will definitely  turn the event into a special day.

Pubblicato in Folklore and accommodations in Tuscany | Lascia un commento

“Nothing is real” by Chris Gilmore in Pietrasanta, Lucca

In Pietrasanta, Lucca,  home of  bronze foundries  and marble workshops,  where art is able to conjugate its connotations of eternity and challenge to time, an unusual exhibition “Nothing is real” by Chris Gilmore,  from March the 9th up April the 10th 2012.

The location is the Galleria Arte Contemporanea  Marco Rossi  in Piazza Duomo 22.

The  sculptor, born in  Manchester in the 70s, has been  living in Udine in the North of Italy for some years. As from his curriculum,  he exhibited  in Italy  in 2001 at the Archaeological Museum in Bergamo, in Padua at  the Galleria Perugia and in 2005 in Milan at the Bells Foundation. He also is appreciated in the States for his past exhibitions at the Museum of Art and Design and  at Freight + Volume Gallery. The material he uses in the works on show here in Pietrasanta  is  rather unusual,  recycled cardboard turned into an unsuspectedly expressive material.  The sculptor abandons the  quasi- noble materials,  marble and bronze to devote himself  to a  perishable  stuff. Everyday objects such as the moka(Italian coffee maker), the typewriter or more defined  contemporary cultural symbols such as the Lambretta (a biker of the fifties) or the Fiat 500 become embodiments of his playful imagination.

The cardboard, extremely poor material, generally  used in packaging,  accomplished expression of consumer  lifestyle,  is here being ennobled  by  artistic inspiration.  Art is trying  to overcome the decaying feature of the material it works on,  simultaneously  hinting at the ephemeral and transient features of contemporary times. Nothing is destined to last. Gilmore’ artistic coordinates may be found in the Arte Povera of the sixties for the refusal of  the traditional means of expression in favour of non- artistic materials, such as  natural wood, stone, rag, industrial waste.

According to Germano Celant, its main theorist, the Arte Povera  aims at  reducing signs  to their lowest terms to bring forth  their archetypal values.  Therefore,  Arte Povera not as  an impoverished art,  but an unrestrained one,  a working lab in which the theoretical basis turns  in a complete availability towards materials and processes, beyond any apparent negation and deflation stance.

Pubblicato in Culture in Tuscany, Senza categoria | Lascia un commento